Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had my O2 sensors replaced and my R32 GTR runs much better!

During cruise and light throttle the car is more responsive and quieter! I no longer have to down shift to go up small grades and the fuel economy is better. I should have done it sooner!

About a month ago I took my car out to Hills Motorsports to have them run it on the dyno. Before we started, they hooked up the diagnostic tool and found my rear O2 sensor was dead, and the front was not responding very well. At R32 GTR owners know, the Titania sensors are expensive. I shopped around and found Kudos Motorsports had the best price on 2 new sensors. I gave them my info and received the O2 sensors within a few days. I took my car back out to Hills Motorsports and they installed them for me. Driving away from the shop I noticed an immediate improvement in the throttle response during light throttle. A side note, the black on the back of my white car from the exhaust has reduced considerably.

Thanks Hills Motorsports and Kudos Motorsports! I would recommend using both of these businesses!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271646-o2-sensors-replaced/
Share on other sites

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works.

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works.

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

yup, i have the consult cable + software but didnt check o2 sensors prior to swapping to PFC, do u know if PFC picks up faulty sensors at all?

yup, i have the consult cable + software but didnt check o2 sensors prior to swapping to PFC, do u know if PFC picks up faulty sensors at all?

Check paulr33's PFC faq;

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

I haven't checked the km's per tank yet... I do know that from Tuesday to Tuesday the petrol gage is down on empty. This week it is on a quarter tank. (Not scientific, I know.) The exhaust sound was louder and you could tell it was rich. Now it runs smoother and the exhaust note is crisper. On any slight uphill I would have to down shift. Now it has some power down low so you can just push on the accelerator a little and it picks up speed. My wife even noticed the difference!

The change is significant if your O2 sensors are bad. Because they are so expensive, have them checked first!

Mark out at Hills Motorsports in Castle Hill is very good.

  • 1 month later...

i've been fairly interested in this thread.

My O2 sensors on my 32 GTR went bust when my turbo blew and obsiously broke the sensor.

since then i got the turbos replaced to new ones, which are the 2860-5's and because the sensor was buggered the car would run like a real pig when they were plugged in. so i unplugged them. then a week later i spun a bearing!

i know bad luck hey!

since that i got a motor rebuild, forgies, new crank, race bearings, thicker head gasket,etc

but didnt replace the O2 sensors, they've only gotten installed today, but for about a month of not having them plugged in on the new motor the car has been runing fine.

getting around 15L/100km which isnt too bad, but that has been conservative driving.

going to pick it up today,

will post again to let you guys know if i notice any difference.

You can even use a O2 Sensor to test it..

On a cruise in 5th gear doing around 60km/h A/F ratio should be near stoich (14.7) as the closed loop circuitry should trim the fuel down so it leans out, if it's running HEAPS rich you know your O2 is dead.

PFC users

ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

look at 02-1 and 02-2

these are your 02 sensors

they should blip up and down when you tap the throttle

if they are toast they will show 0.00 or hardly move

and the sensor name may become highlighted in black background if its shagged/unplugged

the O2 sensors didnt make much difference to overall power, but it definitely does feel a lot nicer to cruise around.

my fuel ecconomy has improved heaps too, i did a bit of a country drive on the weekend and i've still got a 1/4 left in the tank (yes, i know its a guage reading which isnt accurate at all) but i've done 450+ kms

before i would struggle to get 400kms out of a full tank, i know the country drive would've helped.

the car seems to be a little more responsive at low revs too when its off boost.

just feels and sounds more crisp

i got genuine ones, and i'd say they're well worth the money!

i dont think my mechanic took too long to do it?

he didnt charge me any labour though, because it was supposed to be done with my build but the sensors didnt come in.

i would assume it would be a bit of a pain, just like doing most work in the cramped engine bay of a GTR.

i think you might need a special tool to be able to undo it?

not 100% sure??

Brez

the O2 sensors didnt make much difference to overall power, but it definitely does feel a lot nicer to cruise around.

my fuel ecconomy has improved heaps too, i did a bit of a country drive on the weekend and i've still got a 1/4 left in the tank (yes, i know its a guage reading which isnt accurate at all) but i've done 450+ kms

before i would struggle to get 400kms out of a full tank, i know the country drive would've helped.

the car seems to be a little more responsive at low revs too when its off boost.

just feels and sounds more crisp

i got genuine ones, and i'd say they're well worth the money!

they shouldn't alter power output.

there is a special tool, 02 sensor removal tool

its bascially an open ended socket so you can slide it over the sensor and it doesnt clash with the plug

i think its about $30 from repco, without it = dont bother

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...