Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what a terrible rule lol

id take the mesh off the back of the AFM, honestly whats that filtering?

It doesnt filter anything. An air filter does that :dry:

It just breaks up any turbulence that might have been induced by the shape of the tubing from the filter to the afm

-D

I ripped the mesh out of both of my AFM's and made them a straight though pipe, but that's only cos they do nothing on my car anyway. :dry:

Edited by DSTROY
It doesnt filter anything. An air filter does that :dry:

It just breaks up any turbulence that might have been induced by the shape of the tubing from the filter to the afm

-D

the first mesh doesnt do that?

maybe replace it with blue mesh, it will get 11% for sure then

Why all the hate dude? :D And didn't you know blue mesh is good for 10rwkw? :P

Well, did some digging. Yes the mesh does restrict flow, but only marginally. And it does so to disrupt laminar flow and induce turbulence. It can also change the way the AFM reads, and alter the load figure the ECU uses.

Why all the hate dude? :D And didn't you know blue mesh is good for 10rwkw? :P

Well, did some digging. Yes the mesh does restrict flow, but only marginally. And it does so to disrupt laminar flow and induce turbulence. It can also change the way the AFM reads, and alter the load figure the ECU uses.

Yeah, what professor ruebenstein said

-D

All i saw was the "11% More Flow By Removing The Mesh" i thought it was a stab at Ruby...had another look then saw the rest :D

It doesn't really say anything about more Performance, just more flow through the AFM, which in turn could equate to more performance. I would still leave it on though...even though i am getting rid of my AFM shortly for a MAP.

All i saw was the "11% More Flow By Removing The Mesh" i thought it was a stab at Ruby...had another look then saw the rest :D

Oh don't worry, the pack of bastards are still having a go at the mighty blue mesh :)

:P

The Airflow meters with honeycombe were to ensure that the flow was even and could garauntee an accurate reading. The mesh ones however are a safety barrier. Want to know how much difference it will make? Take the mesh off and pour water through the mesh at a constant speed (under pressure of course) then remove the mesh and see how much water you can pass though in the same amount of time. Air flows exactly the same way as water, essentially air is a less dense fluid. I'm betting you can get the same amount of water through both times as the surface area of the wire itself is minute in comparison to the area of free space between the mesh. Yes, it will cause turbulance but more so if it was being forced through the mesh in a push situation, but being a turbo car it is under suction and that air is under a pull senario.

Want more air? split the intake line off between the AFM and the pod and make a 'Y' piece to have two pods. Once again.. what gain if any except that there is now double the surface area available to draw air from but still the same anemic engine and mods after that.

End rant!

Edited by Stagstock
Want more air? split the intake line off between the AFM and the pod and make a 'Y' piece to have two pods. Once again.. what gain if any except that there is now double the surface area available to draw air from but still the same anemic engine and mods after that.

End rant!

Or, just ditch the 60mm afm's and upgrade to the 80mm z32's :D

-D

interesting topic.

ive found after getting my new car, that mitsubishi maf sensors (afm) as much more temperamental with smooth air flow and turbulence. generic pod filters make the mitsu afm read rich and often the car will stall. to overcome this the mitsu guys run a long intake pipe, where in theory, by the time the air is at the sensor, it will have aligned. or (which are now available) u can get specific pod filters with work with the mitsu maf sensor and keeps the air aligned, to prevent the circular motion of air generic pods create.

so whats this got to do with skylines? well i guess all cars are prone to this, just nissans are a lot more robust and the effects are minimal.

The problem with the mesh isn't the reduction in flow it's more the pressure drop that it induces.

Compressor flow is dependant a pressure ratio (when you look at a compressor map the numbers on the LHS of the map) meaning that the flow output increases when the absolute pressure presented to the compressor inlet is increased. What the mesh does is reduce the pressure in the intake tract before the turbo and therefore reduces the compressor efficiency.

Having said that, there are a lot of reasons for the mesh to be retained, the main one being the laminar flow reason mentioned above and it is required for the AFM to function correctly/efficiently. And really if you want to increase compressor efficiency by reducing pressure drop then you should be lokoing at a MAP based ECU and even then you will find that the air filter produces a bigger pressure drop that the mesh on the AFM.

Oh don't worry, the pack of bastards are still having a go at the mighty blue mesh :P

:)

Ruby I dont hate the blue mesh, I just hopped on the comment bandwagon

Edited by sapphiregraphics

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...