Jump to content
SAU Community

S15 Diff Into R33 Rear End

samps
 Share

Recommended Posts

samps Rookie

samps

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got an R33 rear end with 4.11 or 4.3 gears in my AC Cobra replica. I'm running a 6 speed behind a 6.0L V8 and need to fit the lower ratio 3.692 from the S15 into this cradle. Does anyone know for sure whether or not I need half shafts and CVs from the S15 or just the diff centre? I understand the R33 diff backing plate may need to be swapped over to the S15 diff.

Can anyone recommend a Jap wrecker in Melbourne metro? Also what's the going rate for a used S15 diff? Otherwise a good performance shop that may sell KAAZ/Nismo diff centre new?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by samps
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271924-s15-diff-into-r33-rear-end/
Share on other sites
samps Rookie

samps

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Swap the crown wheel & pinion from the S15 diff to your R33 diff.

Thanks. Have you done this conversion? I spoke to a diff place and they said going from viscous to helical will probably mean I have to change the LSD centre as well.

Anyone know if I just get a complete S15 diff with half shafts, will it bolt straight into the R33 cradle once I've swapped the back covers?

Edited by samps
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I've fitted a Stagea gearset into my R32 GTS4 diff. Swapping the gearset, you keep the centre - they are both "R200" diffs. Then the output shafts fit (they "plug into" the centre), and the halfshafts work. And the whole assembly fits into the cradle. No swapping external components (back plates), no worrying about half shafts.

Bit of a worry about the "diff place" - swapping viscous to helical is swapping the centre, AFAIK.

Talk to Steve at Speed Technology.

samps Rookie

samps

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Bit of a worry about the "diff place" - swapping viscous to helical is swapping the centre, AFAIK.

Talk to Steve at Speed Technology.

Yes but you only said pinion and crown wheel, which leaves the centre out of it.

Not to worry, I've sourced an S15 diff complete with half/drive shafts from Sydney and it's a straight swap.

Cheers

  • 5 months later...
samps Rookie

samps

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK, I sourced a complete S15 manual diff centre from On Boost Auto (good price, good service) and it's in. Except they forgot to send half the bolts for the inner/outer half shafts. So I'm six bolts short and I've called them back but they don't have any more in the yard at the moment. It's been a few months since it arrived and me actually cleaning and fitting it.

I've tried a few bolt places but can't find a match or anything suitable to replace them in high tensile.

I thought I'd post here in case anyone has a spare set, perhaps from a broken diff or leftover from a conversion? We're talking about the 3 sets of 2 bolts/nuts/washers on each side of the diff that holds the inner/outer shafters together. Total of 6 required, S15 centre.

Any other suggestions welcome!

Paul

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...