Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: 1989 Nissan skyline R32, 4 door sedan

Location: Newcastle NSW

Reason for Selling: need a smaller car for the commute to work...

Price and Payment Conditions: $8000ono

Extra Info: ok so here goes.. its a 1989 nissan skyline gts sedan, it is a factory manual 5speed and factory non turbo with the very strong RB20de, the car has only just been service, and had its timing belt and head fully rebuilt around 40,000k's ago, so she starts 1st time everytime and runs beautiful.. battery has just been replaced, has gtr headlights, full bn sports bodykit, cusco rear coilovers, hks front coilovers, apexi pod filter (comes with standard air box) has a ground kit, fresh starter motor and alternator, has 18inch rays engineering wheels, exhaust sounds awesome, rego"d in nsw until 23rd march 2010, has around 28x,xxxk's on the shell, and around 50,xxxk's on the motor, clutch has been replaced and motor serviced regularly, i havnt had any problems with the car as of yet, ohh also has competition clarion subwoofers and dvd headdeck etc etc.. its a perfect p plate car.. any questions just ask.. all it needs is tlc on the paint work and she'd look incredible.. but already turns heads everywhere as is...

and a quick challenge to those who think there all that, try and find another 4door r32 that is factory manual and non turbo.. i bet you cant! :P

Pictures:

l_d13495d4cd9e4a419ae54d00ba7c9a21.jpg

l_33d2a47e67fd4c3e9366ccb828624851.jpg

l_760f2e3cc28d4964b8bebf0680143753.jpg

l_7e309b25d0ae49cdb9b09f5655a065d6.jpg

and how it looks without the bodykit and with aftermarket guards which are also forsale

l_f0a31760856f4c92973537a51b2b853b.jpg

and thats how she looks when i actually clean her.. lol

l_607d97df186f4e7a8c56bcfed1469052.jpg

Contact Details: TXT PREFERED 0459405726 Sam or pm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272003-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...