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Does It Matter...

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Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

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if you were goin into the housing.. i'd most likely go location 1, however better off in my opinion to put it in the intercooler pipe close to the turbo, saves having to pull apart the turbo than drill tap and clean and worry about possible little bits you "may" have missed

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CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

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location 1 would be better to reduce turbulence.

I have found boost control will be better if you tap a hole 20cm from the compressor outlet. usually on turbos with large compressor wheels and small compressor covers you get a lot of turbulance. not the case looking at that compressor cover but still if possible i say 20cm away from the turbo

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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I suggest taking it from the inlet manifold so that when you shut the throttle it slams the waste gate shut... Will help you tremendously in getting it spooling properly in the next gear, and then your EBC if you go to run one, will be taking the pressure source, from the point most people have their boost gauges running from... :)

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mad082 Grand Master

mad082

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I suggest taking it from the inlet manifold so that when you shut the throttle it slams the waste gate shut... Will help you tremendously in getting it spooling properly in the next gear, and then your EBC if you go to run one, will be taking the pressure source, from the point most people have their boost gauges running from... :)

i had mine running from there after i put my fmic on and i was having all sorts of boost spiking issues. moved it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and it held boost solid as a rock. the reason being that you end up with a longer hose so the pressure takes longer to get to the wastegate so the turbo will be creating more pressure than the wastegate is seeing for a short period of time.

also having it from before the intercooler means that if your cooler creates turbulence resulting in increased restriction above a certain pressure your turbo isn't going to be working harder than you think. ideally you should have your boost gauge before the intercooler as well. if your intercooler was crappy and added restriction of 2 or 3 psi at 13psi and you have your gauge and wastegate line after the intercooler then you only think your turbo is running at 13psi but it is really running at 15 or 16psi and shortening it's life.

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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i had mine running from there after i put my fmic on and i was having all sorts of boost spiking issues. moved it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and it held boost solid as a rock. the reason being that you end up with a longer hose so the pressure takes longer to get to the wastegate so the turbo will be creating more pressure than the wastegate is seeing for a short period of time.

also having it from before the intercooler means that if your cooler creates turbulence resulting in increased restriction above a certain pressure your turbo isn't going to be working harder than you think. ideally you should have your boost gauge before the intercooler as well. if your intercooler was crappy and added restriction of 2 or 3 psi at 13psi and you have your gauge and wastegate line after the intercooler then you only think your turbo is running at 13psi but it is really running at 15 or 16psi and shortening it's life.

I don't have a single issue with running my pressure source from the manifold, and I know many people who do it also.

And I have a light switch turbo, in the fact it's nothing nothingn othing everything all at once. Doesn't spike one bit.

From down near the intercooler, I'd say is actually more hose then running straight across the firewall.

Also, I didn't think the waste gate allowed the air from the pressure source line to "vent" to atmosphere. Therefore, pressure along that line should always be the same no matter what.

Also, if your boost guage is T'd from before the cooler, how do you know how much boost you're running at the motor?

Like my car runs a map sensor, so if I take my boost reading before the FMIC, where the temperature is roughly going to be the same (Hence, at same pressure etc, same amount of air is there) but my FMIC is working a lot better as it's colder, suddenly my motor sees 2 PSI less then I want it too, the MAP sensor picks up on this, and will make the car run in a different load point on the MAP... Shortening the engines life... And hey, I know I'd rather replace a $2000 turbo then a $7000 - $10000 motor... Also, if you're running that high up near the top of where you should be running the turbo, that pushing one or two more PSI is going to damage it, then really, you need to rethink your logic of choice of turbo, and pressure you're running...

Also, are you saying your boost guage, you don't let it read into vacuum?

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RRob Community Regular

RRob

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Posted

Sory champ but why do lots(most) manafacturers all go from the cooler pipe or compressor housing? Cos its the proper spot to have it. The way yours is set up the boost controller will be working very hard to control boost. 1 thing I notice is how much nicer the turbo comes on when getting sourced from the cooler pipe/compressor housing.

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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Sory champ but why do lots(most) manafacturers all go from the cooler pipe or compressor housing? Cos its the proper spot to have it. The way yours is set up the boost controller will be working very hard to control boost. 1 thing I notice is how much nicer the turbo comes on when getting sourced from the cooler pipe/compressor housing.

Mine comes on beautiful and strong. Set to come up to 14PSI, and it does that straight away, and not a single PSI over. EVER.

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Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

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I don't have a single issue with running my pressure source from the manifold, and I know many people who do it also.

And I have a light switch turbo, in the fact it's nothing nothingn othing everything all at once. Doesn't spike one bit.

From down near the intercooler, I'd say is actually more hose then running straight across the firewall.

Also, I didn't think the waste gate allowed the air from the pressure source line to "vent" to atmosphere. Therefore, pressure along that line should always be the same no matter what.

Also, if your boost guage is T'd from before the cooler, how do you know how much boost you're running at the motor?

Like my car runs a map sensor, so if I take my boost reading before the FMIC, where the temperature is roughly going to be the same (Hence, at same pressure etc, same amount of air is there) but my FMIC is working a lot better as it's colder, suddenly my motor sees 2 PSI less then I want it too, the MAP sensor picks up on this, and will make the car run in a different load point on the MAP... Shortening the engines life... And hey, I know I'd rather replace a $2000 turbo then a $7000 - $10000 motor... Also, if you're running that high up near the top of where you should be running the turbo, that pushing one or two more PSI is going to damage it, then really, you need to rethink your logic of choice of turbo, and pressure you're running...

Also, are you saying your boost guage, you don't let it read into vacuum?

what ecu do you run ? We will have to stay away from them if they cannot handle a 2psi change in boost

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MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

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what ecu do you run ? We will have to stay away from them if they cannot handle a 2psi change in boost

The ECU can easily alter fuelling.

The difference being, when you tune a car to say 18PSi. with WOT, 16PSi at the same rev point, usually relates to a slightly closed throttle.

16PSi wot and 16 Psi partially closed are two different VEs on the motor. Not by much, but ever ever so slightly.

Also, MAD082 may want to share what turbo he runs an aftermarket one can't handle running 2PSi more then it is set for... :(

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