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Just A Teaser Of Whats Coming Soon For Dori34

dori34

By dori34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
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I'm looking forward to seeing this! Only 2 weeks now =P Still a bit intrigued that your NEO had the blanking bolt as opposed to a blank spot where a oil feed would go. I thought it was the non-NEO DE's that had the blanking bolt.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
yeh it suprised me as well lol

mod list:

turbonetics stage 2 t3 turbo (450hp)

turbosmart ultragate 38mm

emu

gtt injectors

33 gtr pump

adj sard reg

adj exh cam gear

3" turboback

fmic

hoping for 200+

nice list, i have always liked their gt-k series with the black front housing.

but 1 thing im wondering... why choose a turbo that needs an external gate for now? if your aiming for 200-300rwkw, you could do that easily without an external gate...

how much psi u hoping to put in?

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

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12psi atm.

i picked up this turbo for same price as a stock rb turbo and its a heap better turbo so i figure why not get it, has plenty of power left for future buildup if i choose to go down that path as well.

oh and ext gate sounds awesome!

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
12psi atm.

i picked up this turbo for same price as a stock rb turbo and its a heap better turbo so i figure why not get it, has plenty of power left for future buildup if i choose to go down that path as well.

oh and ext gate sounds awesome!

well if it was that cheap then why not!

but wot about the manifold tho? with manifold, turbo and gate id imagine you could get a internally gated aftermarket turbo for the same price? or was this setup alot cheaper?

im only para because of the popo in melb... might not be as bad for u....

and yes.. external gates sound pretty bloody nice.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The biggest issue is if you use the stock ECU and a piggy-back, counter-tuning the stock timing is a little time consuming.

If you keep the compression high, the best thing to do is get a larger than stock sized turbo if you want to run pressure over 9psi, flowing the exhaust gasses out as quick as possible is better to stave of detonation. I've seen T04E's on these engines spool like stock from the higher energy combustion that you get from high-comp.

The fitment is pretty easy, can be done at home over a weekend with no real dramas.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

When you say spool like stock..? I've never had the joy of driving a factory turbo..

So you wouldn't recommend running more than 7PSI for a factory R33 GTSt Turbo? I'm still running 7 PSI of the actuator, eventually planning to get a EBC, possibly a Gizzmo as they seem to be very reliable and excellent value for money. So perhaps it's best to have a larger turbo before running more than 7 to keep some sort of reliability?

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
When you say spool like stock..? I've never had the joy of driving a factory turbo..

So you wouldn't recommend running more than 7PSI for a factory R33 GTSt Turbo? I'm still running 7 PSI of the actuator, eventually planning to get a EBC, possibly a Gizzmo as they seem to be very reliable and excellent value for money. So perhaps it's best to have a larger turbo before running more than 7 to keep some sort of reliability?

haha yeah I just mean come on boost earlier, some turbos get a good 1000rpm earlier boost than if they were on a 9:1 engine, nice :laugh:

You can run more than 7psi, just you may need to lose some timing in order to do it...and it may be one of those things were the gain of boost ends up not netting much extra in power. A turbo with a bigger rear housing will make more use of the extra gas flow and as a result you can run more boost as the heat is getting out of the combustion chambers quicker.

G0DZLR Mentor

G0DZLR

Posted
Posted

the 33 GTST stock turbos are reliable at 10-12PSI afais. mainly on RB20s as there isnt as much stress on them as they dont spool up as quick as on the 25s. its when you go to 14 that you start having reliability issues.

Dan, are you saying having a larger dump/front pipe reduces detonation? (makes sense really when i think about it)

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
the 33 GTST stock turbos are reliable at 10-12PSI afais. mainly on RB20s as there isnt as much stress on them as they dont spool up as quick as on the 25s. its when you go to 14 that you start having reliability issues.

Dan, are you saying having a larger dump/front pipe reduces detonation? (makes sense really when i think about it)

From the way I understand it, you want to get the gas out of the engine quickly. Too small a turbo and it will become a restriction to flow. Just like say an old factory cat converter in a high powered car, except that after the manifold, the turbo is the first place hot air ends up after it leaves the engine.

I would imagine that the front/dump pipe should be a size that allows the air to flow and scavenge optimally. Too big and you reduce the efficiency of the exhaust system. Would I be right in my thinking by saying that changing to a larger front/dump pipe but not touching the turbo would be like fitting a larger catback system, but not changing a restrictive cat? If a front and dump is able to flow enough for the given amount of power (lets say 3" for the average N/A+t), but the turbo isn't able to pass through the exhaust gasses quickly, then the restriction isn't the front/dump and changing to a larger front/dump isn't going to make much of a difference.

The goal would be to get the exhaust gasses out of the engine and out of the turbo quickly, therefore making power and more of it, efficiently, and lowering the time that hot air stays in the engine and turbo, therefore reducing chances of detonation.

Please correct me if I'm wrong

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