Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hehe cheers man, yeah went on Tuesday. Thought it would be a good chance to test out the 5D2. Prob go back again at some point with my macro lens and tripod + flash.. I used my 70-200 2.8 IS and 400 f/5.6L all day.

Sidd, you are obsessed with the harbour lol

I got so bored yesterday when i went.. It will be last set of night time shots.. Im so over it!!

Im gonna start getting into glamour/model shoots.. Just saving up ab it of money on lighting equipment :whistling:

Those city shots will probably be my last set for a long long time..

anyone here own pocketwizards? I want one..

I don't have them, but i'm keen to get some. I don't know exactly what I need though. I have the ST-E2 at the moment which I use to fire flash from above my fish tanks. I have used it on some car shots though.

Fark that is a cheap solution Xmetal, thanks for the heads up man!!! Did you get yours from the same people on ebay or??

I bought mine from my local camera shop here in newy however they are made by the same people as the ones on eBay, on a full charge they'll have an average range of 30m, beware though, they are prone to electrical interference so they have this nasty habit of triggering the flash at random. :D

I bought mine from my local camera shop here in newy however they are made by the same people as the ones on eBay, on a full charge they'll have an average range of 30m, beware though, they are prone to electrical interference so they have this nasty habit of triggering the flash at random. :D

If your after alternative triggers, try cybersyncs from alien bee (unsure if they ship to aus as they seem to only sent there strobes to the US, check alien bees website), otherwise i recommend cactus triggers, there great, but as expected sometimes they don't fire multiple flashes and the build quality is a little bit flimsy,but then again you get what you pay for and they work for me 99% of the time. www.gadgetinfinity.com Get the V4's as they are the newest ones.

Also for all you canon Nutta's i HIGHLY recommend you head over to http://photography-on-the.net/forums There is a vast amount of information on how to's as well as you can post anything photography related or show your photo's or ask for help on how to process/print something and your bound to get an answer, great bunch of people!

Edited by FST513
Fark that is a cheap solution Xmetal, thanks for the heads up man!!! Did you get yours from the same people on ebay or??

Yea i have the pt04s for a while now.. they give me the shits.. so slow and i hate it!!

but yea its cheap and does the job.. But frustrating at times!! Esp when doing it outdoors..

I want pocketwizards to also fire my strobes etc..

If your after alternative triggers, try cybersyncs from alien bee (unsure if they ship to aus as they seem to only sent there strobes to the US, check alien bees website), otherwise i recommend cactus triggers, there great, but as expected sometimes they don't fire multiple flashes and the build quality is a little bit flimsy,but then again you get what you pay for and they work for me 99% of the time. www.gadgetinfinity.com Get the V4's as they are the newest ones.

Also for all you canon Nutta's i HIGHLY recommend you head over to http://photography-on-the.net/forums There is a vast amount of information on how to's as well as you can post anything photography related or show your photo's or ask for help on how to process/print something and your bound to get an answer, great bunch of people!

Im considering purchasing some alien bee strobes.. Thinking like the B800s..

Still gotta do a fair bit more research on exactly what i need to setup a small studio.. But i sorta got an idea of what i want!!

Just cant go any further as i still need to save up money.. so expensive all these things lol

I remember that B&H had some "impact" lighting kits, which consisted of 2 umbrellas i think and i can't remember what else for around $100 US, might be worth looking at? Yeah, check if AB ship to australia, because as far as i know, they only ship to the states which is sad because they got some awesome gear e.g. AB800's!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...