Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas. Had my car up on the hoist the other day and did my Engine, Gearbox and DIFF oils. Were all black and put good fresh stuff in em.

However while the car was up on the hoist i noticed a sensor coming out of the cat. Which had tape over it.

I believe this sensor is the EGT (exhaust gas temperature sensor). The tape was around the 2 coils of wires in it and i think its rooted..

The car is running heaps rich so i thought i should give replacing this sensor and the O2 sensor at the same time.

Where abouts would i get an EGT sensor from. The O2 isnt a problem.

Could this be the reason. Cos its faulty... and its dumping more fuel in to cool the exhaust down???

Cheers Blokes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273476-egt-and-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

I dont think EGT sensor affects anything, just throws up a light on the dash if it overheats. A lot of people take it off when they installl a metal cat

skylines always run rich when modified unless you have programmable ECU

Hey fellas. Had my car up on the hoist the other day and did my Engine, Gearbox and DIFF oils. Were all black and put good fresh stuff in em.

However while the car was up on the hoist i noticed a sensor coming out of the cat. Which had tape over it.

I believe this sensor is the EGT (exhaust gas temperature sensor). The tape was around the 2 coils of wires in it and i think its rooted..

The car is running heaps rich so i thought i should give replacing this sensor and the O2 sensor at the same time.

Where abouts would i get an EGT sensor from. The O2 isnt a problem.

Could this be the reason. Cos its faulty... and its dumping more fuel in to cool the exhaust down???

Cheers Blokes.

I have searched but nothhing i seem to do will stop my car from running ritch as shit.

I thought this forum stuff was about helping inexperienced people become experienced. Not just to palm them off onto something else.

And how can u guarentee that the EGT is just for a light on the dash. If its hot.. wouldnt the computer naturally tell the car to put more fuel in to cool it down???

Michael

EGT is pretty much only for the warning light in the dash, its to tell you that you engine has run ultra lean to the near point of stalling (my mates R32 did it) it sets off a trouble code and the ecu puts the car into a limp mode state. if your car is boosted above stock (say 10psi) like mine im not 100% sure on this so dont quote it but i think the ecu tries to make up for the extra air being forced in by dumping a whole lot of fuel in which results in the rich running. either that or you have a faulty o2 sensor.

hopefully that helps a bit if at all :)

the cat temp sensor DOES NOT send the ECU into limp mode or any other mode. all it does is trigger the dash warning light which is there to tell you to slow down to prevent cat damage and also not to park in long grass as it's a fire hazard. it's in the original owners manual.

the 02 sensor will cure any problems with poor running at cruising situations (small throttle opening, low load conditions) but wont do anything for how the car runs at WOT etc.

are you running an aftermarket exhaust? FMIC? more boost? if so this is why the car runs rich. as the afm sees more air getting into the engine they start to overfuel as a form of engine protection. they just keep throwing more and more fuel in the more boost and power you run. the only way to cure this si return the car to stock (and they are a bit rich stock anyway), or get an aftermarket ecu and have it properly tuned. I know which one I'd do....

Yeah i shall replace the O2 Sensor and see how i go....

And as for the computer.. Which is the best that is recomended.. As it is almost tax time and i should be getting a good summ.. (touch wood)

So i might have some money to spend.

The car is running about 10psi with a stealth boost T, has a FMIC whis doesnt do anything, reason being.... and the stock thermo fan was replaced with a thermo bolted straight onto the radiator.... no shroud or nething. WHAT A WANG he was when he did it. newho.. All is to be resirected with a new ALOY radiator and dual thermofan setup. Has a Varex exhaust which doesnt work because it is filled with carbon... AND that is alll...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...