Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok i am just about to have our guys do a wide body kit for my GTR, i was thinking that i might get them to do an entire front so it can be lifted off in one piece.

That and the doors should make quite a difference, i will see how it progresses as only a few days until the GTSR arrives and that will be # 1 priority for a few weeks so might not get it done for a month or so. We are set up for carbon fibre too but lets see how it turns out, how much wider are you going to run the car?

haha group buy then...I'll take a set for our sports sedan too :P Local regs allow up to 100mm wider, and I assume Brad is using GTR dimensions as a base (ie it will be log booked as a gtr not gtst for the extra base width).

Mine will be 100mm per side larger than a GTR. It will resemble a skyline but wont follow the same body lines.

It will have a GT car style front with the tires sitting well up inside the guards and so forth.

A normal wide body wont cut it due to the ride height.

Chassis rails are 55mm off the ground so you can imagine the bulk the guards are going to need to cover the tires.

Ill put some recent photos up tonight. I now have alot of the chassis done. Just need to do better front legs as im not happy with the ones I have and then can finish the main part of the cage.

yeah from the rear

Floor will be within the guidlines

Flat under the car except bwteen the wheels as per the regs.

Ive decided to lower the budget on this car and probably put it up for sale when its finished and competative.

Or ill donate it to Jay to drive and ill remain the owner, I dunno something will happen with it.

Already there is things I want to do differntly so ill be building another once this is complete.

I really want to do an inboard suspesnion set-up and change the control arm layouts around but now the main chassis is done its to hard to do so ill save the ideas for next time around

Edited by Risking

fear not Duncan i didnt sell it and we have a new style haltec ECU they want tested for bugs so she will live again. and we have 7 guys working on bloody cars these days lol so she will still get her dose of lovin even if its someone else lol.

I will send you some pics of the current body kits under development, We have an EVO kit now that is what you looking for Brad its now over 180mm wider and sits 35mm off the ground with a full flat bottom, wind splitter, rear difuser etcetc. For the time attack car we are building. Not all that bid a deal i wouldnt think to do the same with the skyline.

Is the car 35mm off the deck or just the body kit??

My actual chassis rails are 55mm off the black stuff. so the body of the car will actually have to sit alomost level with the chassis rails. Min 40mm rule sucks

It'll be fun to get onto the trailer with that kind of ride height but meh.

I dont think it would be possible to get a skyline that close to the ground without doing some major re working of the suspension. I know Johns Z car is no where near that low and I dont know about marks R34 but I suspec alot of that is body kit hanging down

Edited by Risking

Duncan can you email me the current rules again,

I seem to have lost them and google is not working for me.

I can widen it 100mm per side yeah?? Ive had a bad feeling its 100mm total but im sure thats wrong!

And on a side note the other GTR got a new gear box yesterday.

We pulled the old one down its got a shattered 3rd/4th selector fork. Its absolutly smashed to bits.

Edited by Risking

im not sure how it will be done yet,

the current car has 4m long ramps and is 80mm off the ground. it JUST get up onto the trailer deck.

Im going to have to get a new trailer to take the width so I may have to custom build it and make the trailer lower to the ground as well.

massive thanks has to go out to peter at Bonds roll bars for his help today.

I was having a few problems getting front legs that would work with the chassis design and didnt have the time or patience atm to bend them up. They could not be too tight to the a pillar due to the body shell needing to be removable but they had to be a neat enough fit to look okay and do the job.

Peter came to the rescue and made me up a set of perfect fitting legs this morning. They are close enough to the pillar to tag neatly but far enough away to make shell removal easy and possible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...