Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pretty sure got the fronts for under $1k off ebay and they were 2nd hand but good condition

They dont come up that often tho...

I can give you the contact in QLD I got them through and see if he has any more??

WRS don't have any more 997 callipers or rotors,

i bought them all two weeks ago. If your after a set if 997 cup callipers they can be had for around the 1k mark for a pair and 600 odd for the 380mm floating rotor IF you know the right people to buy them from.

There is a fair ammount of work required to fit them, the porsche hats require replacing or modifying to suit the hub and the stud pattern, the lower control arm needs some clearance mods, custom adaptors obviously, and mods to the upright to accomodate the bracket and caliper size.

We've also found that with the weight replace the wheel bearings and studs BEFORE using the car with brakes like this. They WILL fail with the rotating mass.

I've got a set on my road GTR currently and they are far too noisey for daily driving, the rotors rattle till warm and drive me nuts. The set on my race car are okay though as noise doesn't matter.

There is no such thing as a streetable pad either, I've Had a set if pagid backings re lined for street use.

You'll need some big internal diameter 18's as well

I have 8 sets so if you are interested in buying a set for a skyline I'm willing to part with them for the right price.

This is a current 997 Cup calliper (NOT a road going porsche 6 spot calliper or 996) with a Ferrari F50 calliper

post-20349-1256799676_thumb.jpg

Here is a 997 Pagid pad up against an F50 ferrari pad, the size is obvious.

post-20349-1256799646_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1256799621_thumb.jpg

These are the 997 brembo floating rotors we use, the rears are in the background kinda. Rears are very hard to get as the porkas dont wear them so they are used for very long periods.

post-20349-1256799580_thumb.jpg

Out of interest here is a few I bought the other week, pretty average condition but no leaks or problems just paint damage.

post-20349-1256799556_thumb.jpg

Edited by Risking

IIRC Porsche here in Melb would sell cup calipers for $700ea for the fronts. The street 6 pots were about $1100ea

Probably not the same thing as what you are talking about above... but it does put it into perspective when you think people try and ask $1500 for USED GTR Brembo's generally with fked disc's and near dead pads :P

  • 11 months later...

I have a set of 996 GT3rs brakes here to use on the track car.

PICT4852.jpg

PICT4851.jpg

The fronts are for 355mm 35 thick rotors and the rears are for 330mm 28 thick rotors.

Can anyone give me an lead on reasonably priced hats and rotors to fit an R32 ? Also adaptors for the calipers. I can make em but really cant be bothered.

I'm also interested in this. regarding use on a street car how would I go about getting these engineered?

wheels are 17" 33 GTR. also brake master cylinder size - what size do the 996 rotors take?

You will end up making them yourselves as there isnt any other way to get them cheaply. Especially since you want 35mm thick fronts which means you are looking at racing rotors. A few years back V8s used 355x35s and it was pretty easy to get that sized rotor for about $550 each. Now that they run 376mm rotors the 355x35mm Brembo and AP rotors are now around $700 each + Hats.

SO, for the front, you are looking at around 2K for rotor and hat, 700-800 for mounts because the big Porka caliper calls for a rather more complex mount. You then are looking at around $1500 for rear rotors and about 500-600 for the mounts.

Dont you just hate brakes!!!!

I think the easiest way to get what I need rotor and hat wise is to use ALL Porsche parts. The porsche calipers use a very wide pad. Fronts are 65mm wipe width and rears are 50mm which is wide for race pads. Performance friction have reasonable price items so I am leaning that way.

Issue is that almost all the race calipers/rotors only have a wipe width of 50mm front and 40mm rear. This cuts down the suitability of 90% the parts on the market.

I found that if I use Porsche hats they will fit with a bit of massaging. The centre hole on a Porsch is smaller so they can be machined to fit an R32 hub. The bolt holes can be drilled to fit by turning the hat 20 degrees and drilling another set.

The offset is 10mm too far inward. But I think a 10mm spacer behind the rotor would fix that. OR making the dog bones to take into account the extra offset may work as well. Havent checked clearance to the suspension yet.

Good thing the calipers are cheap. This is going to take ages to sort out.

Edited by Tektrader69

It not hard at all.

Your on the right track with the spacer behind the rotor. It will rub on the lower ball joint without one.

We use the entire 997/996 rotor and hat just machined to suit with a machined hard anodized spacer.

I actually bought a heap more callipers rotors and pads today to make up a few sets for cars im doing.

The adaptors are complex due to the shape and size of the caliper.

One thing worth mentioning about the 996 caliper particularly the ones you have is that they flex like a bitch. The mountings are too close together, the 996 cup car caliper is better and the 997 calliper has the mountings alot further apart again anD doesn't seem to have the same issues the 996 ones do

it is alot easier to fit the 996 cup calipers to cars with mac struts due to the mounting points being closer but the skyline uprights are easy to work with the 997. The adaptor needs to be as long as the calliper though.

Dont spose you have a set of rotors and hats that I could buy and use Risking? Running out of cash for new stuff.

Did I really need to know about the calipers flexing ?? :P LOL

Edited by Tektrader69

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...