Cold air box.

[JimX]

Today I put in the cold air box I got from Unique Auto yesterday. Here's what it looks like:

Well, I like it It's only painted fibreglass but it's very nicely finished, it's either pitch black or like a mirror depending on the angle. If anyone has a pod filter sitting exposed in their engine bay, I would advise them to get something like this. The engine is a lot more responsive and pulls straight through to redline now. Before this it would suck in lots of hot air and I'd get considerable power drop as the revs increased.

JimX.

[Grim]

looks good

where do you have cold air feeding into the box from?

[JimX]

From behind the headlight There's no scoop or a provision for one. I'm not sure how it compares to the factory intercooler, but I've got 2 FMIC pipes blocking off the area that I'd be able to run a piece of PVC pipe down to the front bumper to give it a bit more of a scoop. I might have a better look one day and see if I can rig something up.

JimX.

[XrSiSt]

JimX, nice work.. Was it hard to put it. What type of filter have

u got running? (To see how big of a filter u can put inside)

[JimX]

It was very fiddly, it took about an hour or 2 (I didn't really pay much attention to the clock). But it wasn't difficult at all, just time consuming getting everything lined up and not flexing it too much. I had to temporarily remove:

1. Air pod (with AFM) and securing bracket (not able to be replaced because it doesn't line up properly - but the box holds it securely enough, and I can make another bracket if I want).

2. Both intercooler pipes in the same area.

3. Charcoal pollution cannister and hoses.

4. Air conditioning compressor wire clip.

5. Boost controller relay (the box mounts under the same bolt hole)

Then feed all the plumbing through one at a time and get the box into place, and re-attach everything again.

I have an APEXi pod underneath which I stupidly forgot to photograph with the lid off, I'll see if I can go take a few more pics of the pod tonight. There's a heap of room inside, the side edge that you see is pretty much the only barrier, the rest of the area in front is just limited by the car. Any pod that has the intake in the standard position will be able to fit in there.

The only real issue with the pod is that because of the angle and size restriction of the intake hole, I had to rotate the air sensor around in such a way as to let me connect the pod up properly. The wire has plenty of slack though and it's not stretched at all, just the connector is now underneath and harder to get at than on top. But all you have to do is loosen the pod bracket and rotate it back around if you can't reach the wire as it is. Not that you'd need to regularly disconnect this wire anyway. I'll take the pics tonight and you'll see what I mean.

JimX.

[TSTG33R]

nice bike!

[JimX]

TSTG33R, thanks

Back on topic, here's the pics of the pod inside the box.

I've tried to show both sides of the AFM wire connector.

JimX.

[R33-JET]

would the air pod being in the airbox make it epa legal or same ****

or just make it harder for them to know wats in there

[JimX]

Well, I've heard a variety of reasons why the pod is supposed to legally be in a box. Any or all could be true, or it could be something else.

This ranges from emissions, to noise, to somehow exposed pods being physically dangerous? (backfiring out the pod I guess) I really don't know what the story is, but I do know that the box cuts out absolutely no noise from the pod so that's the least likely.

Pods are definitely legal if they're in a box, I guess they *might* break some noise laws depending on the design but the pod won't make much noise if you rev it in neutral with no load on the engine. Which is how the noise testing will take place.

JimX.

[XrSiSt]

Thanks for the pics JimX, looks like u've convinced me to go and

get one.

[JiMb0]

How much did the box set you back from UAS ?

[JimX]

$170, but retail is $180. I got a $10 discount because he was about 4 days late in getting it in (wasted 4 or 5 phone calls chasing it up), but that didn't bother me because I didn't have time to put it in the day before I got it anyway (last Saturday). So the $10 off was a nice bonus

[Gerds]

Got the same set up as you, Apexi pod with the fibreglass from UAS. The lid makes a difference!.

[JimX]

Gerds, definitely. In fact I'm going to one day fully seal everything up properly with some foam or something so that I don't get wisps of hot air wafting in. Won't make as much of a difference as the box/lid itself, but every bit helps.

But gotta get the car back from the smash repairers first *sigh*

[Gerds]

YEah the fibreglass partition has small gaps to it.

What place did u take ur car to get repaired?

[JimX]

Nowhere yet, got to drop it off tomorrow morning at a smash repairers in my place.

[51jay]

JimX Next time you'r looking at it could you measure and post the diam and length of your Apexi Pod filter.

There is room to bring in a 90mm intake to the bottom of the cold box from low in the front bar. I'm half way through my installation. It was complicated by the position of the ic pipeing and the fact that I have a stock GTR intake into the top of it.

I decided to make my own in fibreglass sandwich. The core is outdoor carpet and will have 2 layers 400G fibreglass each side and a final layer of reflective foil.

If anyone's interested theres a link to some pics (I hope)

http://members.optushome.com.au/jay51/Cold...20and%20intake/

[JiMb0]

Jay, I'm looking at doing the same sort of thing with an intake from the front bar. Could you please advise how you took off the front bar and the front guard ? Did you just use a dremel/holesaw to make the hole ? Cheers !

[51jay]

JiMbO Put the front of the car up on axle stands enough so you can easily get you head under the front bar. Remove wheel on the cold box side ... it is easier if you remove both.

undo attachment points for the black plastic inner mudguard just the front for the driver side. take it out on the cold box side.

It is attached at 2 points to the bottom side of the front bar + a couple of plastic clip thingies .

Look up underneith the front bar at each side it has 2 screws per side holding it to the guard 10mm hexhead i think remove these.

Remove the grill 5 plastic squeeze clips use narrow nose pliers to squeeze them. There are 3 plastic clip things holding the top of the front bar, remove them undo the fog light wiring plugs pull the bar straight out to the front. The wiring plugs are locked together. Pull the bar out until you can see them clearly and use the pliers to squeeze.

Guard : Take off the little trim piece at the bottom rear of the wheel arch 2 screws at the front 2 at the side near the jacking point . you may have to do a little straightening of the lip to get them out.

Remove the remaining section of the black plastic mud guard

3 or 4 screws in the lip of the wheel arch, several plastic clip things along the other edge.

Look inside the guard back towards the door, unplug the indicator repeater ...it's just a half turn and pull. Low down at the door end is a 10mm hexhead screw remove it , open the door about half way and going through the gap between it and the guard at the top is another one remove it. Remove all the screws along the top edge of the guard at the side of the engine bay.

At the outer end of the Headlight and just underneith it are 2 more hex heads remove them and you'r done wiggle the guard out.

I used an 80mm hole cutter and half round file, 90mm stormwater elbows and pipe and the red bit at the front is the plastic bowl that Woollies Christmass puddings come in.

As a guide the hole needs to be somewhat oval as the elbow needs to come straight out the bottom so it doesn't come too close to the wheel. It protrudes a little through the plastic mudguard so you have to cut a hole in it trial and error

The elbow should be cut in as close to the ic pipe hole as you can and as far to the outer side as you can. you ar cutting through a curved surface. That's why it needs to be ovalled at the rear.

All the plastic clip things fit 8mm holes and i replaced them with new from the Rubber Shop $9 per dozen. The old ones tend to be brittle and break. If you can't find these I can get you some.

For the cold box itself I made it from Grey plain outdoor carpet From Hardware house $20 per meter 2 meters wide. It is pliable and flexible but stiff enough to hold it's shape when in place.

I made the side wall first and gave it a good coat of polyester resin in place to make it rigid. You can then take it out and apply a couple of layers of fibreglass. It is very rough and hairy after the resin so needs a good but gentle sand befor applying the fibreglass. Then the same deal for the top. One screw at the front and the rear is enough to hold it The outer edge tucks under the little lip of the guard. Along the join you will need to make an angle on one of the pieces so you can screw them together or like me just tape them. Incidently the carpet is a good insulator but a layer of builders silver foil on the inside wouldn't hurt

[JimX]

Jay51, can't measure the pod until the car gets back from the smash repairers in god knows how long It's a very small pod compared to others like Blitz, but apparently it still flows very well. If anyone's worried about which pods will fit, I would say that the Apexi is the most likely to be able to.