Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did you actually notice any diffrences by mounting them in the higher positions??

I can't say. I moved the knock sensors right away when I built my RB30, so I couldn't compare. Since the stock sensors were right below the deck surface, I wanted to keep them in that same relative location.

I think unless you need to re-tap for the 26 sensons you are wasting your time. As you know iron is very dense and has no problems transferring shock through it, especially an inch or so below the standard locations.

My best guess to why they are there would be easability of production but i could be wrong. if you look at the Standard RB30 mounting positions they appear to be exactly the same postion as RB20,25,26 so maybe given that the block is identical excluding final height they just sent it down the line and used the same tapping jig as all the others.

It may be cast there origionally with good intentions because theoretically deck height or (the furthest contacting point at the end of the stroke) would produce the largest forces as it changes direction..

i could wabble on about forces and piston speeds but it's not relevent.

Nissan in short, knows there sh*t :P and if they think the sensor is ok there then it is!!

  • 2 months later...

I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
I have built up a 26/30 and have heard that there isnt any point in running knock sensors as im running haltech E11. I just want a heads upif I should put them in or not..? I have my old RB25 sensors that fit the 30 block so are they ok to use..?

Cheers

Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

Rob, does the Haltech have the facility to use the knock sensors? I'm computer dumb where it comes to tuning. If you can use them, use them for sure. Have you got it up and going yet?

Hey Greg,

I have haltech E11v2 and dont think it can run them. Will see the tuner tomorrow and find out.

We fired it up to run the cams in and everything went well.

Hope to get it in to have some bigger cooler pipes made up this week and catch can, then will be off to the rollers for some exercise.

I will let you know how it goes :-)

The factory ECU will not retard the timing if it sensors detonation. From what I have seen it will switch between high and low octane maps based on knock feedback at low rpm high load. If it changes from high to low and it still continues to detonate there is nothing it will do to stop it. So in a sense they do f**k all.

The factory ecu has a low octane timing map, So the question is how low an octane fuel or how high a cylinder pressure are we talking about. The std ecu does have its limits, Mine used to knock like a salesman everytime I got crap fuel when the local servo ran out of premium.

  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

In the case of my RB30 block i simply drilled and tapped the blanked upper positions, the tuner will need them to monitor knock levels on the dyno.

I forgot to whilst it was out of the car.

so, this was easier than attempting it in the car.

especially since they have to be dead straight.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...