Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am cleaning out the shed, if i find more parts lying around i will list them here.

Rb20det- $200, i bought this engine 3 years ago to rebuild, when i got it the head was seperated from the block due to a blown head gasket, it has no turbo, wiring, ecu, altenator, aircon pump or power steering pump. the engine is now completly in pieces, and has been stored in cardboard boxes for the last few years.

R33 S2 doors- $200 pair

standard R33 front struts- $80 pair

standard R33 front sway bar- $50

R33 S2 front guards with indicators- $200 pair

R32 front guards- $120 pair

R33 glovebox- $40

R33 aircon/fan/heater box- $50 ea

R33 steering column- $50

r33 S2 rear quater interior trim- $100 pair

r32 rear quater interior trim- $50 pair

R33 S2 door trims- $150 pair

R32 fmic with pipe kit- $150

R33 front hubs- $100 pair

full set R33 seat belts- $150

R32 side mirrors- $100 pair

R32 glovebox- $40

R32 indicator stalk- $30

R32 bonnet hinges- $40

All prices are neg.

I can post smaller parts at buyers expense.

bigger items are pick up only from Woodville, nsw, 2321-10mins from maitland.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274459-r33-s2-r32-parts/
Share on other sites

r32 rear quater interior trim- $50 pair

wot sort of condition are these in?? are these upper trims??

they are the lower trims, each side of the rear seat, excellent condition

What colour & condition are these in?

passenger side has a small scrape, will need minor repair, drivers side is good, they are black

i also have a r32 rear subframe, it is complete minus diff and calipers. $300 ono or pm me for individual part prices.

R32 manual conversion parts-no gearbox or tail shaft, $150 ono

my number is 0411553427

Thanks,

Brock

R33 S2 doors- $200 pair

R33 S2 front guards with indicators- $200 pair

R33 steering column- $50

R33 S2 door trims- $150 pair

hey bro what colour are the front panels and if i buy most of this stuff how much off each item are you willing to drop off it. Cause i only really need silver fron right and door right panels.

hit me back

What colour are you r33 S2 doors in? im after the passenger door.

hi mate,

doors are white

send me your email address if you want pics.

Hey mate do you have the drivers side seatbelt available?

Cheers

pm sent

i have decided to sell the engine in seperate pieces.

everything is there,

crank, rods, pistons, cam shafts, cam gears, lifters, injectors, manifolds, sump, block, head with valves, there is a altenator and air con compressor, standard intercooler pipe with BOV. COMPLETE engine in pieces.

i can post anything under 20kg's at buyers expense

pm me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...