Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have the ogura unit same as rev210

it use to vibrate in 4th and 5th between 1500-2000rpm. I was told its a balance issue but i also tend to think it just took awhile longer for it to bed in as i don't get the vibration anymore.

and yes do it, response is awesome

I have no vibrations at all. I torqued the bolts up in proper 'star shaped' sequence to ensure the perfectly ballanced Ogura flywheel sat flush on the mounting point.

Craved,

Less acceleration up a hill? Rubbish! : A lightened flywheel equiped car will completely kill a car the same without a light flywheel. More so in the first few gears.

Bottom line is that the light flywheel equiped car out accelerates a standard flywheel equiped car up a hill or down a hill, into a headwind or going with the breaze. They are a dead heat off a cliff tho' (if your into that form of racing save your money).

The easy to stall part is because of the heavy clutch. I don't have a heavy clutch just a good 9 puck ceramic friction plate. Therefore no one has problems stalling my car.

i agree with you rev210, no chance of less "acceleration"! however i did say momentum, thus in a high gear in lower revs up a hill the lighter flywheel will drop revs quicker! Especially in a full/heavy car!!! thats all i was saying!

Guest darrinspencer

just for everyone's knowledge

Direct Clutches in Brisbane 07 3862 2680

Can do a lightened flywheel that weighs 5kg for $440 retail.

compared to others that are heavier and cost a fair bit more, makes these great value.

they also do a clutch kit

2800lbs organic clutch plate rated at 350rwhp or 260rwkw for

$530 retail

i have decided to put both these in my car.

I had a 'lightweight, cross drilled, balanced and machined' flywheel in my last car, i didnt get any vibration, and there was a definate performance increase...not a lot, but it made the car feel slightly sort of ligher...(more power i guess..)

the car also held speed better on a straight. ie. before it would slow down without pushing the accellerator a bit, but after you wouldnt have to push the pedal and it would hold speed.

Maybe you should find a cross-drilled one...apparently works sort of like cross drilled brakes, lessens the effect of a clutch overheating and slipping.

Originally posted by Richelieu

For piece of mind, billet alloy flywheels weigh in at less than 1 kg.

crap, a flywheel will not weigh less than 1 kg, a bike one maybe not a car tho.

i got a 4.8kg (ogura chrome molly) flywheel also and its makes a great difference in acceleration and i dont have any vibration problems. U will get vibration problems if u try lighten the stock flywheel.

I'm also considering a light weight flywheel but after speaking to perfomance shops etc I'm a little undecided, coz I want to keep everyday drivability.

Is there a severe decrease in bottom end torque? Apparently lightened flywheels are awesome above 3k rpm but suck for every day city driving?????

Altho siksII describes otherwise, I have also been informed that a lightweight flywheel will also cause the engine to drop revs a lot quicker when you back off the accelerator.

These 2 theories seem to make sense to me as less weight = less effort to make it move, but less weight = less momentum to keep it moving.

These 2 theories seem to make sense to me as less weight = less effort to make it move, but less weight = less momentum to keep it moving.

Thats right, my car revs much more nicely upto redline and i havent noticed any loss in low down torque.

Dont you hate when people give things bad reports when they would know shit about it or even driven a car with it??

yeh....deceleration will be quicker..not the car but the engine speed......its pretty simple lightened flywheel = quicker accel, quicker decel...

probably have to clutch in bit sooner and city driving will need bit more throttle than usual....(bumper 2 bumper)

Originally posted by Richelieu

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/articles/406sup...os/photo_4.html

third coloum, halfway down, says flywheel weighs in at less than 500g.

What the???? You are quoting an article about a touring car with an aluminium flywheel, that requires to be shimmed up every race to maintain contact, with a street driveable alloy flywheel that is designed to not need shimming???

you also stated "For piece of mind, billet alloy flywheels weigh in at less than 1 kg."

I didnt see that anywhere in the article no reference to billet or to alloy or to 1kg.

In case you havent noticed, this thread is about lightened flywheels for a skyline - find one that is available in alloy under 1kg designed for use on the street - you wont. Ogura is the lightest I have seen, and it weighs 4.8kg.

Originally posted by Richelieu

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/articles/406sup...os/photo_4.html

third coloum, halfway down, says flywheel weighs in at less than 500g.

and that article proves what? do u drive a touring car on the road and pull the flywheel out everyday??

Ok guys ill try explain how the lightened flywheel works in laymans terms...

Lets say u are going to push a box on the ground. If u have a light box, it is easier to push and quicker. If the box is heavy, it takes more time.

This can be related with the engine and flywheel. If the flywheel is light, the engine can get to higher RPM quicker, and if the flywheel is stock/ heavy, it takes the engine longer to get to higher RPM.

What this all means is that you can accelerate quicker due the the engine being able to rev quicker. This is the principle reason that people change flyhweels to lightened items. The only downside is that because the engine can increase in revs quicker, it also decreases in revs quicker.

Hope that makes sense to those confused.

and that article proves what? do u drive a touring car on the road and pull the flywheel out everyday??
find one that is available in alloy under 1kg designed for use on the street - you wont. Ogura is the lightest I have seen, and it weighs 4.8kg.

Fair enough. You guys are right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...