Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is the G25 no longer made? I picked one of these up for $250 from Hardly Normal 3 years ago. It's connected to my Microsim Race Base (showing my age here).

The shifter quality is still pretty plastic, but better than playing on a keyboard.

G25 isnt sold anymore, the second hand ones ive seen on Ebay have ended up sellin g for the same money as a G27....

380 on ebay seems the cheapest, but also has the biggest postage $80 from what i recall. it seem the cheaper the product. the more the postage is.

i bought my G27 from Umart in brissy. cost me $405. picked it up the next day. no waiting, and no overpriced postage.

some of those driving rigs are pretty nice. but far too expensive for a few bits of thin metal tubing. and a friend has the VR one......very flimsey, not good for 650 bucks. and 2000 forget about it. mine cost me $250 for the bucket seat about 8 yrs ago ;) all the rest was free!! (except the G27 obviously)

there are other driving games other than GT5 you can use your steering wheel with. no need for it to collect dust :D

some of those driving rigs are pretty nice. but far too expensive for a few bits of thin metal tubing. and a friend has the VR one......very flimsey, not good for 650 bucks. and 2000 forget about it.

The Racebase plans and hardware cost me something like$80 back in 2004, and probably $50 worth of MDF.

I see they're back in business, and you can get the plans for $9, and hardware for $50-ish. If you're handy with woodworking, they are pi$$ easy to make.

http://www.thewayiplay.com/mainforum/index.php?topic=894.0

too much of a pain to get in and out of though. if i was going to do it i''d leave 1 side off so you can slip into it easier, or make it have a scissor door, lol

What? Seriously?

Are you an arthritic 80 year old or something? Have you actually tried these things?

I can think of plenty of reasons one might not want one of these, but ease of access? Come on - surely you can do better.

Besides, the steering wheel tilts up out of the way if you want it to (although I've never had to do that)

Each to their own though.

you are pretty much sitting on the floor. i'd rather have it at seat height. i don't have the money or space for a sim anyway, so i'll just be sticking with the controller. never bothered me in the past. i might get one eventually (when i'm in a house with more space), but that won't be for a while yet.

i'd really like to get a car and mount one in the car so the steering wheel, etc is all in the exact location it would be in real life.

looks good, and cheap, and real easy to make. would save alot of stuffing around with measurements like i did. ill stick with my alloy one tho. Sure its pretty well on the ground, and doesnt look as artsy. but its sturdy enough to use it to drag yourself out if need be. Easier to get out of than a bean bag :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...