Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just managed to get bronze on the first 2 Sebastian vettel challenges (using a controller with all assists off except for traction). Now for suzuka which i think will take a while. Monza was the easiest. Took about 20 mins of trying

Ok suzuka bites the big penis. After about 20 attempts the furthest i have gotten is about 30 seconds into the first lap, which is still a few corners before the hairpin, so i'm giving up. Not even going to bother trying it again. It would be ok if you could at least finish the race when you get dq'd so you can learn the car and the track, but instead you have to learn 1 corner per attempt, if you are lucky to make it to a new corner. Over half of my dq's were on the first corner

I made a pretty nice track the other day, its just a shame you cant fine tune it as theres one or two parts that annoy me. The rest of it is pretty nice with big sweeping corners and chicanes.

Its a start I guess, better then nothing

I have gold on the first 2 Vettel Challenges and a silver on suzuka which took me many hours over the course of a couple of days. The nurburgring took about 3 or 4 hours, Monza was fairly easy just need to use the green astroturf bits on the chicanes and at Ascari, also there is a little wall on the inside of the first lesmo corner so i found i needed to turn into the corner a lot later than what felt right but because the car has so much grip it just stays on the track. I'm also using a driving force GT which probably helps with achieving the target times over a DS3.

The game is good I only really have a problem with the headlights in the dark and the rewards available for races. Money is harder to come by in this game than any other and the cars are much more expensive now, the inability to re-win prize cars and sell them also doesnt help and whats with having a 20m credit limit.

My PSN is lmanion, add me for remote B-spec ;)

dam. nice work dude. once i get my arm out of the wrist brace i will be trying them again. the car is just soooo grippy its very deceiving.

on another note. i will hit lvl 35 today!!!! so i can have my very own to practice with.

I also used my wheel to change the brake bias to something like 7 or 8 front and 10 rear, with the amount of grip this thing has this helps bring the back round so you floor it and it just drives through the corner in a way that seems impossible.

how retarded is this. 21hrs into the 24hr le mans and this time im watching as it starts raining. car doesnt seem to be losing grip on the slicks so i leave it. couple laps later and its noticeably slower around corners and the lap times reflect this so i change to intermediates which gives more grip and brings the lap times back down.

now the pit indicator comes on after every lap to go back to slicks.. why??? how stupid is the ai to think that slicks are a better idea when the intermediates are giving more grip??

and whats more.. every other car on the field is pitting every 1-2 laps to replace their medium slicks, with another set of medium slicks?? ugh. words can not express the level of fail here.

i feel ya. in the Formula GT series, my B spec driver would pit on the last lap of every race......even if i told him to pit early to get it over and done with.....almost lost me the dam race/series.

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

Edited by boiracer

I did a wet race (think it was monza in the polyphony cup) and i started on wets and i found that after a few laps a dry line started to appear, although i only discover it was happening from playing around with the view and driving off line on purpose and seeing the change in the ammount of spray off the tyres.

all good tho, lvl 35 Bspec=i no longer care about it!!!

i assume this is cos u finally got the X2010? the only thing i have against this car is its 500,000 credits to rebuild and u dont even get that much from winning a 24 hour. i reckon a 24 hour should win at least 1m credits. the current prizes dont make it worth it, i'm just doing it for the xp. using the mazda 787B stealth model cos all the stealth model and chrome line cars only cost 500 credits to overhaul so its far more economical. would suck if i hadn't bought collector's edition.

lol, thats it. the X2010 does the entire dream car series in about an hour. 84+ grand a race and 433g for winning. not bad money...alot better than the useless enduros. i think this will be my cash cow.

other than the remote B speccing, thanks guys :) picked up more than a mill tonight. and been setting up races all night.

Q: I'm assuming (risky move I know) that any cars you race against will eventually turn up in your UCD?. Or are there some cars that you can only buy used if you have the more expensive versions of GT5?

I ask because I've been purposefully refreshing the entire UCD stock list for weeks now any I'm still yet to see the F1 GTR long tail come through the lot (plus a heap of other interesting stuff). It's just the same bunch of shit-boxes over and over and over. Am I missing something here?

na the UCD is exactly the same no matter what version you bought. the only difference is the stealth models, and chrome line models that come as dlc only with collectors and signature. they are the only cars in the game not available to standard gt5. the stealth models are just same as the usual version in the game, just painted black with polyphony/gt5 logos on them. no big loss. chrome line are again same as normal cars but with lame paint jobs. the only good thing about them is they only cost 500 creds to overhaul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...