Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at a front brake upgrade with 360x32mm disc and 4 pot brembo calipers from a big yank car. These calipers can be had for approx $600del a pair.

I have found VE HSV 365mm commadore discs can be made to fit fairly easy. Need to change the hub diamater from 67.4mm to 68mm, change the stud pattern from 5x120 to 5x114.3 and machine the disc diameter from 365mm to 360mm to suit the calipers. I could probably leave them at 365mm. The VE hat height is 54mm and skyline 53.75mm. The VE disc thickness 32mm as well.

So looking at those numbers, I think it should not be too hard to make these to fit.

Unless I have missed something?

Now need to mount the calipers. I can draw up the brackets in cad to give to a machinest I have access to.

What material can/should they be made from

Mild steel? Weight a problem?

Alloy? Grade? Steel insets?

I have seen pic's of brackets/dogbones.

Has anyone got some as any example

Pic attached of the front and rear calipers

post-14923-1245048811_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274804-making-caliper-brackets-how-to/
Share on other sites

hard to tell from the pic but those calipers look smaller than the F40/50 type you'd need to use 360mm discs. what diameter are the discs on the donor car?

The donor car uses 360x32mm disc and 115x5 pcd, but the hat height is approx 70mm and the hub size is approx 72mm so would need to reduce this to 68mm which is too much effort

That is why I was looking at the VE disc because nearly all the dimensions are the same.

Just had a look at my R34 gtr wheels currently using 310mm r34GTT calipers and there is only 27mm clear. depending on the brembo size, the might not fit

May have to go to 19's

They are lug mount calipers so cant be F40-50s. Be careful trying to adapt lug mount calipers, can be done but is tricky and you can quickly find your self running our of meat in the bracket which makes them to thin and most likely to fatigue.

LOL, having bought and played and sold a fair few brake setups....what you are about to do is going to be more expensive then just buying a new off the shelf kit or a good condition used kit made for your car :)

They are lug mount calipers so cant be F40-50s. Be careful trying to adapt lug mount calipers, can be done but is tricky and you can quickly find your self running our of meat in the bracket which makes them to thin and most likely to fatigue.

LOL, having bought and played and sold a fair few brake setups....what you are about to do is going to be more expensive then just buying a new off the shelf kit or a good condition used kit made for your car :)

I have not priced the VE disc's yet and I am sure I will be shocked by the price. I assume these will be big $. Any idea of cost's?

The brackets I can get made for free, thanks to brisabne city council workshops and both my father in law and little brother inlaw are both fitter and turners.

Calipers, if in good nic are approx $600, custom brake hoses say $200, Pads?

My current r34 brakes need new disc's $500 and pads $200 and I would like to get braided lines $200 while I am at it. So if I offset those costs plus the sale of the R34 gear $300 (approx $1200 there), it MIGHT not be that bad to upgrade.The price of the disc's will kill it

Any new bolt on kit starts at $2200+ for cheap chinese kits and quickly go up from there fo brand name gear.

I would think this setup I am looking at would be of higher quality than the chinese stuff?

If these will not fit under my 18" wheels I might not bother.

Please don't take this as me being a smart arse, or I know better. I don't. This is why I have asked these questions to confirm what I am in for.

Does anyone have any pic's of these brackets on a car?

I had a quick look last night at my car. Do the brackets generally mount to the front or the back of the stub axle?

Looks like they will need to mounted to the back and be threaded as you would have to bolt thru the stub into the bracket. Is this right?

If mounted to the rear, there will hopefully be enough meat in the bracket. I was thinking 12mm steel plate?

the money in big brake kits is often in the rotors and hats and hardware. so getting cheap calipers but finding you still need expensive rotors and compromised mounting you'll end up spending near as much money but at the end you still have those cheap callipers.

lug mount is not the way to go unless they bolt straight on. either find some suitable radial mount calipers or tread the proven paths. yes they cost a little more but brakes aren't cheap. many have tried to come up with budget big upgrades. tried and failed!

Damn. This thread is good for me as Im having all sorts of trouble finding alcon 315 rear disc hats, so I figured to use an AP 330mm disc and make a a caliper bracket...but now I read this probably wont work!!

Bloody brakes!! Theyre a pain in the ass! If you dont spend 10 grand on a kit that is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...