Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after many months my Project 33 has finally been completed and the engine was kicked over for the first time since Jan-Feb this year. ;)

The birth of my daughter had slowed progress up a fair bit but I think in the end the finished product looks awsome.

It all started with a blown turbo so I though while its off the road for a turbo and injector upgrade it was time to do some painting, the Plenum, Crossover Pipe and Strut tower brace are all the excellent work of Chris from Craved Coatings :) and I cannot recommend him enough for powdercoating work. As you can see his work is first rate.

All the red is only out of a can (Metalcast Red with base coat) but with the proper prep work turns out perfect, The only complaint about it I would have is that it is a little brittle when doing up bolts.

Anyway as you can tell I am very chuffed with the results so here are some pics, Please let me know what you think and if it looks like ive missed anything, Besides of course the connections for the catch tank which are meant to arrive tomorrow.

102_8692.jpg

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/uu12/DaveO74/102_8681.jpg

102_8729.jpg

102_8721.jpg

102_8723.jpg

102_8727.jpg

102_8725.jpg

No its off for a Dyno Run.

Not Sure yet...I only went the highflow option to maintain as much response as possible so with a Hypergear G3 profile it "should" make around 240-260rwkw but ill be happy with 240 for now if and when the highflow lets go ill go the hks GTRS or the AVO 450 i think. I just couldnt afford the big $$$ Turbo at the time as my wife was due to give birth a week after the old one blew so I didnt think it fair to spend 3k+ just then

Not Sure yet...I only went the highflow option to maintain as much response as possible so with a Hypergear G3 profile it "should" make around 240-260rwkw but ill be happy with 240 for now if and when the highflow lets go ill go the hks GTRS or the AVO 450 i think. I just couldnt afford the big $$$ Turbo at the time as my wife was due to give birth a week after the old one blew so I didnt think it fair to spend 3k+ just then

Yeah, that is fair enough man, hope all is good with the fam.

Yeah I'd be real happy with 240, looks like u could clear that easy. i got a similar coloured car so this is a lot more appealing to me.

good luck with the beast

Looks really good completed, hope you got the black stealth AN fittings for the breathers.

looks a bit different to the shots i took of your parts lol - though i forgot to take any of the brace/rad mounts and injector caps

IMG_1417.jpg

only suggestion now - $30 worth of cup washers to tidy up some of the bolts in there.

very nice! as chris said, better be stealth fittings, not the standard red/blue.

chris - is that coating straight over the rough ali casting, or has it been tidied up? came out looking a LOT better than stock, and i'm guessing lower maintenance than polished parts.

some powdercoated ones

IMG_1330.jpg

Mitchy_

dave sanded the plenum and cross over before passing them to me to coat. cheaper for him to sand that, than to get me to do it. though im sure he wished someone else had done it, lots of work still.

Alternative is a quick sand, prime, resand then coat in colour. and yes, no more polishing after a month, just wash with soapy water :)

Nice touch with showing me the Allen Key type, you just got some more work me thinks... Hehe

Yeah I have ordered the stealth fittings and silver hose separators but they will still have the red ends, I think it will be broken up enough.

Apparently there has been a courier issue so the fittings and braid are a week overdue

Oh yeh, and you are right about the sanding I NEVER want to do that again, I'll post up a pic of the gear before powdercoating when I get home tonight.

Don't forget to hold on to a bit of the grey for the rims please Chris :)

Very nice engine bay what else you lookin at doin to it??

Dunno, i was thinking maybe a C/F radiator shroud as a finishing touch but I want to sort out some springs and shocks next. I've got the rest of SK's handling package but can't decide on coilovers or bilsteins

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...