Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wondering what some peoples fc commanders read as peak knock when driving hard? What level should it stay under and what would be high enough to cause damage (shortened engine life etc..)? I have noticed mine has read up to 23 but more recently on fresh optimax only 13. What is acceptable as it has been tuned by a well known and reputable dyno tuner.

Thanks

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27516-knock-sensor-on-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by «Cyph3r»

Hi,

Just wondering what some peoples fc commanders read as peak knock when driving hard? What level should it stay under and what would be high enough to cause damage (shortened engine life etc..)? I have noticed mine has read up to 23 but more recently on fresh optimax only 13. What is acceptable as it has been tuned by a well known and reputable dyno tuner.

Thanks

Jamie

i think you're sweet as long as it stays under around 50-60

The fact is you'll get lot's of different answers from lots of different people about this. If the tuner has done a good job there should be no pinging, check what the highest level you get under hard driving conditions, add a bit of a buffer, and you will have a reasonably safe knock level. If 23 is the highest you've achieved while driving hard, then it shouldn't go much past 30 unless something has changed, so might be worth backing off to check.

The knock sensor picks up all engine noises, not just pinging, so the level will be different between cars.

the check engine light flashes when it hits 60, as mentioned I dont think there is too much of a problem if it is under that, personnaly as GTSt has suggested, I keep an eye on it and if it increases much over any period of time it tells me perhaps I need to be careful - dirty plugs, changes in humidity or temperature etc.

I believe it is a guide only. I have had a tune where it regularly went up to 50-60, and no damage was done. The lowest I have seen is now, where it pretty much always sits below 20.

The highest I have seen is 98, no apparent damage, BUT I always back off when the check engine light flashes.

I hope that helps.

  • 7 months later...
Hi,

Just wondering what some peoples fc commanders read as peak knock when driving hard? What level should it stay under and what would be high enough to cause damage (shortened engine life etc..)? I have noticed mine has read up to 23 but more recently on fresh optimax only 13. What is acceptable as it has been tuned by a well known and reputable dyno tuner.

Thanks

Jamie

How do you know what the maximum reading is ? I have PFC and data logit but dont know how to retrieve things like max rpm, max knock etc ???

SK, you out there ?

Hmmmm, It's been said before, but the knock reading on the PFC is an arbitrary value. It is an indication of knock only not a scientific measurement.

The differences between sensors and each particualr engine is enough to make so many differences in tolerance that you can only ever use it a s a rule of thumb.

I know that when my car was tuned previously the dyno op insisted that he could hear no knock from the engine even though the PFC readout was displaying upwards of 60. I have occasionaly seen in excess of 90 (but like Steve I would always lift off in this situation) and having recently stripped my engine found absolutely no det related damage.

My new build shows less than 30 even at more than 1 bar of boost :rant:

  • 5 months later...

I got 84 knock last night 2nd gear came out of a corner sideways not reving hard with 4 people in the car... engine light flashed quickly then dispeared....

Would this have done much damamge if any??? it hasnt effected the knock levels since... I just shit myself when it happened.

My usualy knock level for casual driving with a few squirts is around 10-22 knock on PFC

  • 2 months later...

nah no way dude. I occasionaly get get 2 on start up... When the engine is cold i get read outs of up to 15( i drive slow when im warming up... ie. shift <3000rpm)

on hard open throttle on a cold night i get about 15-25 knock which is good... You arent too far off the mark in regards to wide open throttle but if you are getting 10-15 when starting you might want to get things checked out. Bear in mind knock sensors pick up mechanical noise aswell so it may be even the starter motor.

Take it to Benny at Race pace. i think many people will agree that BENNY IS THE KING OFF SKYLINE

I normally have a readout of 2 or 4 on start up.

I took note of my max readouts the other day in a controlled environment.

duty- 32.0%

timing - 44 deg.

A/F - 3810mv

revs - 4520

speed - 167kmh

water temp - 81

knock - 69

These were taken at night time at a cooler temp and I always use ultimate.

Are these the max readouts? Is this the info to use to see how its runnin?

On hot days I have had knock readouts of up to 90 and once I got a 120! Of course I always keep an eye on it and I back off when it does start knockin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...