Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Paul,

Great time, I didn't do the supersprints - perhaps I should of as the track was getting faster all day!! I was having a few sideways moments around the boobs with power oversteer - apart from that the car seemed to behave itself.

Hope to see you at more events, need a few more R32's to play with!

Cheers

Andrew

Andrew,

May I ask about your diff set-up. I don't think my rear diff is tight enough but I'm wondering if I need a front lsd. My transfer case is very tight. I'm wheelspining quite badly coming out of the 2nd gear corners.

I don't know why there aren't more R32's at track days. The R32 is about the best bang for your buck in my opinion.

I look forward to seeing you out there again.

Paul

  • Replies 167
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Andrew,

May I ask about your diff set-up. I don't think my rear diff is tight enough but I'm wondering if I need a front lsd. My transfer case is very tight. I'm wheelspining quite badly coming out of the 2nd gear corners.

I don't know why there aren't more R32's at track days. The R32 is about the best bang for your buck in my opinion.

I look forward to seeing you out there again.

Paul

Hi Paul,

My car still runs standard front and rear diffs, although I've had the transfer case tightened up (I think it has a couple of extra clutches??). I do have a ATTESSA controller that was running slightly more aggressive torque transfer settings (factory is about 4/10 on this controller and I had it set on 5).

I was still very light on the throttle in a number of spots as I didn't have a lot of confidence in the rear end, the car is more set up for Phillip Island and could be softened up in the rear for Winton.

Cheers

Andrew

I don't know why there aren't more R32's at track days. The R32 is about the best bang for your buck in my opinion.

lol soon there will be another r32 on the track paul! man.. waitin on parts is too long! hows yur trip?

Well I just has a wheel alignment on the weekend and I can see why the car felt so off!

Front Toe +7.5mm left and +8mm right

Rear Camber -2.25 left and -.5 right

Should feel a lot better now :angry:

Jarrod: Nice photo's mate! Some really good ones in there, well done

Photos are uploaded!!!

www.jrmphotography.com.au

Under the motorsports section is the Winton sprint day gallery.

Enjoy.

well the server crash removed the post i had here, but it went something like..

awesome photos, im the white r33 shooting flames.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...