Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VERY HARD! only Just Car might consider that. You would have to let them know the colour.....

That car probably looks normal to you while hiiiiigh. Sure it has awards but I think it's hideous

Edited by Topaz

I'd check the catch can for legity (must drain back into the sump), check it has a cat, make sure it isn't too loud, swap the suspention and wheels, and it should get over.

Having said that, absolutely horrific colour! I'd much rather your RB30 R34. And I thought you were selling it to buy a house?

I'd check the catch can for legity (must drain back into the sump), check it has a cat, make sure it isn't too loud, swap the suspention and wheels, and it should get over.

Having said that, absolutely horrific colour! I'd much rather your RB30 R34. And I thought you were selling it to buy a house?

they dont need to drain back to the sump, just cant vent to atmosphere.

i cant see much why it wouldn't pass, there are no real big issues with it.

i highly doubt the pits will pick up the twins, especially being low mount.

I'd check the catch can for legity (must drain back into the sump), check it has a cat, make sure it isn't too loud, swap the suspention and wheels, and it should get over.

Having said that, absolutely horrific colour! I'd much rather your RB30 R34. And I thought you were selling it to buy a house?

Yes i am still buying a house......and a car lol

this car is highly unlikely to ever get registered and if it were to you'd need to know someone that can provide updated permits for the mods and even then, unless you know someone thats on the pits i wouldn't waste my time. I've imported a skyline from Melbourne that had 250rwkw and that was hard enough as it was, once you start upgrading the turbo's they don't want you on the road. Don't recommend it mate, it will take a lot of time, a lot of money and in the end might get you no-where!

nah i dont think i want to bother with it because i really think getting it over the pits would be a nightmare! More trouble then its worth. Thanks for the heads up guys. But i found another 99 GTR R34 V-spec midnight purple III with 37k km, stock, only 1 owner from jap, orginal log books mint condition. Dealer is asking $62K. What you guys think? Is it worth it? I could get another cheaper but i really like this colour. He said his basically getting his money back because his got another 3 GTR's and he just wants to turn over the stock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
×
×
  • Create New...