Andrew's R32 Gtr With Forged Rb30Dett Build

[R31Nismoid]

Well, I wasn't expecting much, but I think there is a small improvement in response, especially with regards to turbo spool-up. There is no discernible difference in the sound. Maybe if my car was more modified, and flowing more air, it would make more of a difference?

Would be interesting to do another dyno run now with this mod - might try and organise. Would enable me to quantify the flow restriction from the afms.

Been tried and proven a stock airbox will flow 400rwkw (on -5's), stock size AFM's (nismo's). These are circuit cars as well.

IMO sucking in the hot air isn't going to being doing you any favours.

If you have a good panel filter that flows then you aren't really restricting airflow that much. Thats generally where the issue is. People compare the pods to a mediocre panel filter in the airbox

I mean if you can make 400rwkw on a stock airbox there can't be too much wrong with it by simple logic.

I have pods on mine, only because I can't fit a GTR airbox into my car, otherwise airbox all the way as I know mine is just sucking up hot air until I can get some proper CAI going which is the only solution in my case/

[dorifticon]

Been tried and proven a stock airbox will flow 400rwkw (on -5's), stock size AFM's (nismo's). These are circuit cars as well.

That's not really what I was getting at - I was more wondering what back-to-back testing of my previous setup (with AFMs and convoluted piping) would be, vs the current setup, with a better air path. I reckon the convoluted pipes would have introduced a lot more turbulence than my straight pipes. I have no doubt cars are punching out big numbers with the factory airbox, though.

IMO sucking in the hot air isn't going to being doing you any favours.

Yep, agreed. In addition to trying to make a partition between the intakes and the engine bay, I might see if I can somehow insulate the actual pipes. I have also seen people cut vents into the bonnet above the intake, to draw off hot air - maybe that might assist me as well.

[dorifticon]

Pulling apart the inlet manifold showed a decent coating of oil on the inside of the pipes, so the extra boost has got the engine breathing a bit.

(I really should get around to running a compression test as well...)

Have fitted up this oil catch can from JustJap, was pretty straightforward to fit up (once I figured out which way the pressure went...). The hose they sell is pretty good too, the wire lining prevents it from kinking up and deforming too much when you make sharp corners in the engine bay.

[dorifticon]

Just a couple of shots of the car overall, as well...

[Barge Ass]

Really nice clean example man. You are lucky.

[dorifticon]

Well, with Phase I of the build now complete, it is time to move on to Phase II - the motor itself.

I have made a good start with assembling parts. I purchased a complete cylinder head from a forum member, including cams (JUN 272 deg, 10.5mm lift) and springs, as well as porting.

I have taken a pic comparing the stock cam profile to the lumpy ones - quite noticeable!

Also here is a pic of the porting.

[dorifticon]

In terms of the block, after much soul-searching, I decided against a 2.6 build, and against a 2.8 stroker kit (although the billet cranks that come with those kits are sooooo tempting... and retaining the OEM block!!!). I have decided to go the rb26/30 route. Also, rather than actually build the bottom end myself, I am going to get the bottom-end rotating assembly put together by a workshop, then bolt head, sump and ancillaries on and do the install myself. This is more for pragmatism than anything else - I would like the build done some time this century!

As with the previous round of modifications, the build will be overkill for the power I achieve in the short term, but the plan is to build the bottom end once and build it right. I have been in contact with heaps of builders, and they all have different ideas about various aspects of the build. There are heaps of variables with the RB30 block - which studs/bolts to use, to o-ring or not, to grout or not, what girdle to use, oil squirters or not...

There are also heaps of additional costs that just don't happen when sticking with the OEM block. Sump adapters, oil drains, machining, etc etc.

Will post up final details of the build specification when complete, and hopefully some quick explanations of why I have gone the way I have. But regardless, with a bit of extra displacement, a fresh motor and head, some lumpy cams and porting, hopefully it will achieve a decent power increase while still retaining *some* semblance of driveability. And if not... oh well, the datsun is a good daily.

[GT-R32]

Great read mate. My R32 GTR heads to ESP on Monday for installation of R34 N1 manifolds (bigger than normal), R33 dumps and -5s and a tune. I did have HKS 2530s but one of them is dead.

In addition to the dyno differences, I would put that kind of lower level power down to a worn engine (mine made similar power on HKS 2530s), it will certainly be an interesting comparison between you and I as the set ups are very similar.

Good luck with the next stage of your build.

[gtr fan]

Great Thread.

I am about to do similar phase 1 mods with 2860-5's. Just wanted to know anyones thoughts about upgrading CAMs or should I just worry about upgrading CAM gears at this point. Just trying to minimise any potential lag.

Can I also ask how many hours you spent porting the turbo flange on the manifolds. I am wanting this done but don't have the skills or the tools to do this myself so will look to giving it to someone to do.

[R31Nismoid]

Just cam gears is fine.

[gtr fan]

Thanks Nismoid,

I have heard and seen that cam gears are bang for buck and make turbos more responsive.

[dorifticon]

Can I also ask how many hours you spent porting the turbo flange on the manifolds. I am wanting this done but don't have the skills or the tools to do this myself so will look to giving it to someone to do.

I didn't really port them as such - I really just matched the turbo flange to the turbo's (ie removed the lip on the manifold). All up maybe 15 minutes per manifold?

When I bolt them up to my new cylinder head, I will have to match up the actual runners to the exhaust ports, which will take much longer, but will post up details when done.

[gtr fan]

Sorry I meant matching the manifold flange to the turbo flange.

I had a shop quote me about $60 per manifold which seemed reasonable.

[dorifticon]

Great read mate. My R32 GTR heads to ESP on Monday for installation of R34 N1 manifolds (bigger than normal), R33 dumps and -5s and a tune. I did have HKS 2530s but one of them is dead.

So just out of curiosity, what are you getting charged for them to remove and replace a set of turbos? The labour cost must be significant - it took me and a mate a full weekend of working together to do the full job, and we're no slouches when it comes to that kind of thing.

Also, what killed your HKS turbo? I thought they were pretty robust? Oil flow problem?

[dorifticon]

Sorry I meant matching the manifold flange to the turbo flange.

I had a shop quote me about $60 per manifold which seemed reasonable.

So $120 in total - that's a pretty serious hourly rate given I reckon the full job could be knocked over in 30 mins. To put that cost in perspective, a very nice air die grinder and tungsten carbide bit (which flies through cast iron) cost me a total of $200, and I get to keep those tools which have come in useful a number of times since...

In terms of the skills, I hadn't ported anything before I did my manfolds and I reckon i did an ok job. In fact it is a great opportunity to get some practice and build confidence using an air grinder. My tip would be to work in the opposite direction of the way that the bit is rotating, and don't use too much pressure, just be gradual about it.

And cover up/move anything in your garage/shed that you don't want covered in a fine spray of cast iron filings!

Edited September 27, 2009 by dorifticon

[GT-R32]

So just out of curiosity, what are you getting charged for them to remove and replace a set of turbos? The labour cost must be significant - it took me and a mate a full weekend of working together to do the full job, and we're no slouches when it comes to that kind of thing.

Also, what killed your HKS turbo? I thought they were pretty robust? Oil flow problem?

I was quoted $1200/1300 by ESP and they currently have my car so final cost is unknown for labour, but I assume it would be pretty damn close as they've done plenty.

No idea what killed the turbo at this stage. Just started making noise until it finally died. Will keep you posted in this thread.

[08r3308]

looking good so far , great thread

[GT-R32]

Labour came to significantly more than what I said as they simply had to do more work. Tap the head and all sorts of shit. I was really happy with the job, in particularly the time it took and the communication throughout.

The turbos killed off the MAP sensor in my HKS boost controller, so I need a new one now. So the car won't boost more than stock and made 225awkw @ 11psi. Glenn was hoping to see 300 but remains to be seen yet. More cash here I come, LOL.

[dorifticon]

My car has now been featured in Autospeed!

Autospeed article - Andrew's r32 GTR

It's also my first byline! Please support by rating the article and passing on to anyone you know who may be interested.

Cheers

Andrew

[GT-R32]

Rated it. Nice article Andrew.

I'm having issues passing ACT rego right now for ridiculous reasons (adjustable suspension not allowed) so fitting my EBC and tuning are a while off yet.