Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you mean an RD28?

I think it has been done. From what ive read the RD28 has a very long stroke for its bore size, so they arent the most free revving motors. In the end not really worth the expense and effort when you could jus stroke a 26, or build a 3.0L

Edited by MintR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4669316
Share on other sites

I believe the stroke is the same asa the rb30. It has been done by someone on here. From what i gather its a massive job with head bolts in different spots, water and oil galleries not lining up etc. Would be a good start if you want to make over 1200hp, otherwise its not really needed. I would speak to rips, as im sure they have looked down this alley to see if its worthwhile.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4669654
Share on other sites

I've got an RD28 block here at the moment. The rear oil drain on one side is missing, it's slightly different timing wise at the front, set up with a high mount tensioner from the factory. The head bolt holes are in the same spots though and main tunnel sizes are the same as an RB30, it also has piston oil squirters and weighs a heap more than an RB30. It's very do-able and has been done in the past.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4680723
Share on other sites

how does the main cap/girdle setup look in them in comparison to the rb30? Pretty well the same? Oil pick up position?

Much the same as a 30, I can snap some photos if you like, I'm doing a little dummying up this w/e. Let me know what you want to see.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4682297
Share on other sites

Is it really worth all the messing around?

i can see the interest of seeing if it matches up but really when an Rb30 block is ready to go i fail to see the point. looking at R.I.P.S engines and plenty of other Rb's i think the Rb30 is plenty enough capable of big HP.

How much HP are you chasing? I can't see why people seem to think this block will be so much stronger? after all the bores are in the same place and it fits the same head so there is not heaps of extra meat....

Edited by GT-RZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4685352
Share on other sites

Is it really worth all the messing around?

i can see the interest of seeing if it matches up but really when an Rb30 block is ready to go i fail to see the point. looking at R.I.P.S engines and plenty of other Rb's i think the Rb30 is plenty enough capable of big HP.

How much HP are you chasing?

When you are building a $250,000 Pro FX drag car it matters. You have to compete against rotors and 2J's making obscene amounts of power.

To run 60psi of boost and not change the engine after 3 runs (this is what Titan Motorsport in the states do with their 2J engines) needs a very rigid thick walled block...RD28 is the only option for the Nissan runners....for now anyway...something else is being looked at too. If it works it will be big.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4686498
Share on other sites

Actually proengines, the whole block if you dont mind....im interested in what they look like in comparison. Having never seen one before. A picture of every face if thats not asking too much mate?

Im sure alot of others would be curious to see what they look like too for comparative sake.

I believe the bores are considerably thicker in these motors as others have already mentioned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4686608
Share on other sites

The bores could only be thicker on the sides of the block was my point as obviously the material between bores is constant with that of the other RB's (once bored out to 86mm)

but realistically i get what your saying as sleeving can take care of most the direct stresses in BIG HP within the cylinder and the next big problem would be twisting the block. which 40kg extra material around the sides may well fix. i have never seen one. although very interested now as 40kg is allot of extra cast iron, the block must look very fat indeed. how much does an RB30 block weigh? not too much i assume as they are not too hard to move around by hand.

my point was simply towards people in here who are thinking of doing this conversion and probably intending to run no where near 1000hp. For the serious drag monsters this could be an avenue worth the while but for streeters and circuit work i don't see the point. unless you have lots of extra time on your hands and want something to do!

lets just get a 2jz and stamp nissan on the top :laugh:

Or even better someone just machine up a fresh block and head from a solid billet block.

would be nice to get some images of the rd28 and also some measurements. because that's the only way to prove it is stronger.

Edited by GT-RZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4686997
Share on other sites

To run 60psi of boost and not change the engine after 3 runs (this is what Titan Motorsport in the states do with their 2J engines) needs a very rigid thick walled block...RD28 is the only option for the Nissan runners....for now anyway...something else is being looked at too. If it works it will be big.

tb48 with rb26 head...?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4687160
Share on other sites

I think the TB48 all by itself is a better option without a different head... i think you can stroke them to 5litres too??? i just never thought about one of them in lil ol silvia. big engines.

dammit. i have two rb30's here and now i want a Tb48!!!!! lol.

post-41232-1246332214_thumb.jpg

seems there is support for them too http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275654-diesel-block/#findComment-4687202
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...