Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've noticed two strange noises coming from the 26 so i just wanted to know what are your thoughts.

The first happens when i give it a quick rev to about 2000rpm as soon as i let go an it starts to drop off u hear like noisy tappets sort of noise from the head (clack clack clack very quickly) and it stops even before it reaches back to idle.

Its the kind of noise you'd get from using thin oil but i'm using Redline 20w50, with absolutely no strange noises on cold starts or idling otherwise.

Oil pressure is good also - 88psi cold and 24psi hot at idle.

It just doesn't seem normal.

The second happens only when the car warms up. It's the kind of noise u get when u over tighten a timing belt, but i'm not sure if its coming from the timing belt area.

It sounds like its coming from the exhaust valve cover around the no.2 area, so i took it off and everything looked ok.... ie. no scratch marks on the cam lobes and everything looked lubed up.

Not sure if my mind is playing games on me but its hard to pin point this one.

Is there any thing that can be bad, or going bad to make this sort of groaning noise?

As i said....only happens when the car is warmed up.

When i bought the engine from the importers it already had the water pump and timing belt changed, i dont know if the tensioner and idler pullies were changed and i don't know the milage on the engine (R33)

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275814-strange-noises-from-26/
Share on other sites

Try recording the sound and post it on youtube or somthing, since its hard to describe a sound in words.

Also, why 20w50? is this for track or street? Nissan's specification is 7.5w30 or somthing for street.

I've noticed two strange noises coming from the 26 so i just wanted to know what are your thoughts.

The first happens when i give it a quick rev to about 2000rpm as soon as i let go an it starts to drop off u hear like noisy tappets sort of noise from the head (clack clack clack very quickly) and it stops even before it reaches back to idle.

Its the kind of noise you'd get from using thin oil but i'm using Redline 20w50, with absolutely no strange noises on cold starts or idling otherwise.

Oil pressure is good also - 88psi cold and 24psi hot at idle.

It just doesn't seem normal.

The second happens only when the car warms up. It's the kind of noise u get when u over tighten a timing belt, but i'm not sure if its coming from the timing belt area.

It sounds like its coming from the exhaust valve cover around the no.2 area, so i took it off and everything looked ok.... ie. no scratch marks on the cam lobes and everything looked lubed up.

Not sure if my mind is playing games on me but its hard to pin point this one.

Is there any thing that can be bad, or going bad to make this sort of groaning noise?

As i said....only happens when the car is warmed up.

When i bought the engine from the importers it already had the water pump and timing belt changed, i dont know if the tensioner and idler pullies were changed and i don't know the milage on the engine (R33)

Thanks.

Try checking the turbo's wastegate actuator

The noise you get from revving to 2000 quickly and backing off might not be the best and is usually associated with bearings as it occurs when you snap the throttle shut.

Your thicker oil could contribute to it - when you rev the engine the oil that moves to the head may not be able to get back to the bearings in time as its too thick... Just a guess.

The timing belt noise is hard to say - have you tried listening to the cam cover using a screwdriver to get a better idea of where the noise is coming from?

it's injectors. what happens is when you rev they are running. as you quickly step off the throttle for a split second they all shut and are quiet for a moment, then as the revs fall and return to idle they start again. GTR 440cc injectors are very noisy. I have to lol at the number of people who have told me they have noisy tappets etc when it was just normal RB26 injector noise. tappa tappa tappa.

i have no idea what the second noise is. get it checked out. but without hearing the car, what you described first is the injectors.

yep they are noisy at idle too. the only time the noise will stop (if it's injector noise) is that brief moment when you rev the engine up to say 3,000rpm then quickly get off the throttle. as soon as you get off the throttle the noise will stop for a second as the revs fall, then start again as it hits idle rpm. so if it's not making this noise at idle, the sadly it's most likely something else. GTR injectors are very noisy though and that noise is often mistaken for other things by those not used to what RB26 sounds like.

When my old man had his R34 GTR we had a concern over a noisy tappet type sound but was told by multiple workshops it was just the solid lifters that the GTR has but GTS-T's don't, and that it was completely normal.

I must say the RB26 even in R34 guise did not seem to be a particularly refined engine but all is forgiven when the driving experience is considered.

Edited by Swink33
Try recording the sound and post it on youtube or somthing, since its hard to describe a sound in words.

Also, why 20w50? is this for track or street? Nissan's specification is 7.5w30 or somthing for street.

most these rb's have done a fair few km's 20w-50 wont be the issue. i would not run 7.5w-30 in any gtr other than a new engine. 10w-40 at the least.

i reckon the noise in this case will be the injectors like beer baron has posted, we get countless gtr owners complaining with the same issue.

I thought he said the noise only came on decel, then went away at idle.

"The first happens when i give it a quick rev to about 2000rpm as soon as i let go an it starts to drop off u hear like noisy tappets sort of noise from the head (clack clack clack very quickly) and it stops even before it reaches back to idle."

Injectors are going to be noisy at idle, not on decel.

well its definitely not the injectors.

When listening i could hear the injectors operating on idle, and when revved quickly, on decel u could here when they cut out 4 a split second and then come back on, but that is not the noise i am talking about

It comes from the cam covers for sure.

Like i said "noisy tappets" kinda noise

Just sounds strange as the 25 never did it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
×
×
  • Create New...