Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Willalls have made one for me but havent had chance to get it fitted yet.

When I drove Keirs I didnt think the drone was too bad, but I didnt drive it around that much.

It isnt bad enough to want to pull it off is it?

I have fitted one as well........... I agree with GGTTRR the Willall Pipe sounds awesome under power, however, I would have to say there is a bit of drone around 2k rpm when you are using partial throttle (more so when you are in 4th, 5th or 6th).

Still when you hear the sound it makes when you are changing down though the gears (with the blip) nothing much else matters.

I wuold fit it (really quick job) and try it, you can alwasy replace with oem if you don't like it.

And no I won't be pulling mine off

Cheers

Mark

Edited by Wild Thing
Is anyone in Qld with one of these mid pipes willing to meet up to help me decide if this is the right product for me?

Challenge Street Spec Y pipe : good quality pipe, no drone, good gains. AU$1050 landed at your door.

http://www.gtmotoring.com/product_info.php...products_id=162

post-62393-1246547466_thumb.jpg

Edited by GT-Ricer

Thats good to see.

The WR35MP Willall Racing Midpipe made in Australia by Australian Fabricators (not China) using high grade stainless, full length flex joints, TIG welding, and featuring our internal deflector plate to dampen noise without adding the restriction of a muffler(s) is $800 on your doorstep. Great comparison

part3.jpg

Edited by Martin Donnon
Thats good to see.

The WR35MP Willall Racing Midpipe made in Australia by Australian Fabricators (not China) using high grade stainless, full length flex joints, TIG welding, and featuring our internal deflector plate to dampen noise without adding the restriction of a muffler(s) is $800 on your doorstep. Great comparison

part3.jpg

Ausie aussie aussie.

even if slightly more expensive id prefer to purchase the local product.

Thanks DiRT!

Great to hear, this pipe is also one of the most popular and consistent re: INDEPENDENT dyno results Stateside :D

There are a couple of reasons for this. The first is that we use a reversion 'stub' in the pipe inlet to promote turbulent rather than laminar air flow the moment the exhaust enters the pipes. Secondly is we use the diffuser in the Y section which is a carefully calculated length of flat plate that in effect balances the resonance and noise of the system. In other words we can have the same db reading as a lightly muffled system without the restriction, weight, and expense of adding 'cans' to the system. Thats the difference, we like to engineer stuff with a solid thought process rather than just make something that looks cool and shiny :down:

Thats good to see.

The WR35MP Willall Racing Midpipe made in Australia by Australian Fabricators (not China) using high grade stainless, full length flex joints, TIG welding, and featuring our internal deflector plate to dampen noise without adding the restriction of a muffler(s) is $800 on your doorstep. Great comparison

part3.jpg

Very nice! Challenger is designed and QA in the US, fabricated in South Korea, not China.

It has two resonators on the Street Spec and no resonators on the Race Spec, which looks similar to the above, with shorter flex joints, wider Y-Collector, same power delivery as Street Spec but louder.

I would pay $250 more to guarantee no cruising speed drone, as it would drive me mad and force to remove it and flog it on ebay for half the price.

These pipes are polished so they look a bit better finished, not that it will matter much to most.

post-62393-1246585113_thumb.jpg

Ha Ha. Yes I had the Willall midpipe fitted today & my wife is well pleased with the extra girth & increased thrust.

I have done just over 1000 kays with the stock system & I love the new midpipe. It sounds almost the same on start up & idle but when you put the boot in it sounds much better & feels like a real performance car. Very pleased.

I was concerned it might drone a bit but have not noticed much difference at all at cruise speeds. It only seems to make the sweeter noise when you are on the throttle & that is exactly what I wanted.

The WRX STI that I dusted off this afternoon seemed to agree with me on the noise factor. He just loved the sound & made sure to let me know at the next set of lights!!!

I was lucky enough to be able to do back to back noise testing today as I was able to cruise up the Gorge this morning & again this evening (for those not from SA this is one of the best "hammer" roads in the state with lovely sweeping bends & cambers up in the Adelaide hills) & the increased engine note is fantastic.

Full marks Willall. Great product. Great price. Anyone else out there that hasn't got one of these fitted yet - dont hesitiate. As Dirt Said....... Aussie Aussie Aussie.

Yes, I was amazed by the difference the middpipe made to your car.

And you are a top bloke for sharing your R35 experience with me. There's too many pretenders out there that are all talk.

And credit to Willalls for contributing to the experience with their best.

Is anyone in Qld with one of these mid pipes willing to meet up to help me decide if this is the right product for me?

If you are around the Sunshine Coast at all give me a call and you can have a listen.

Cheers

Mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Grind them off, drill them out. Repair any rust on the other side. Start again from scratch.
    • Big R34 GTR parts cleanout. I have a lot of stuff collected over the last 14 years and my missus is giving me hard time. Make my life easy.   Nismo GT carbon fibre diffuser fins (discontinued)  NEW  $2900 Garage Defend Stingray canards carbon fibre  NEW  $1300  Top Secret G Force carbon fibre front diffuser  NEW  $2000  Haltech Elite 2500  NEW  $2500  Haltech Platinum Pro R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Apex’I power FC D'jetro + hand controller R34 GTR   USED  $1400  Nissan OEM BNR34 ECU  USED   $1000  HKS EVC 6  USED  $600  Blitz dual SBC ID boost controller.  USED  $350  TRE 255 LPH Fuel pump  NEW  $100  Fujitsubo  Super Ti exhaust  USED  $2700  Tomei Expreme Ti exhaust  USED  $2000  Trust stainless steel front pipe  USED  $1000  Apex’I super suction kit  USED $400  BC BR coilovers  USED  $600  Hardrace front upper camber kit. USED  $300  Garret 2860-5 turbos –  one good, one needs reco USED  $1000  Nissan OEM Toshiba MFD Screen replacement  NEW  $450  Nissan OEM BNR34 Series II front passenger seat  USED (mint) $5000   Nissan OEM BNR34 front bar in TV2  USED  $1000  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler  USED  $900  Nissan OEM BNR34 front lower air spoiler (painted)  USED  $900  Nismo front indicator (clear) USED  $80 Nissan OEM BNR34 radiator  USED $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 turbos  USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intercooler USED  $800  Nissan OEM BNR34 front swaybar   USED  $500  Nissan OEM BNR34 intake pipes   USED  $400    Also have a square set of uber rare Volk CE28n in 19*10 +22. Not really keen to sell these but make a high enough offer and maybe I will. If you don't know how much these usually sell for don't bother.   PM for pics.  Pickup Chadstone VIC or postage at buyer's expense.
    • Thanks Mate, I did know you could do that but i know there is a pump out there that you can bolt on and it all lines up. I was told about it and then forgot the model, I figure if i am pulling it apart i will just put a new one on 
    • You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump. 
    • Trying to swap the rear subframe on my R34 and can't remove the L-shaped stay brackets between the front subframe mounts and the sill/chassis. I'm in the UK so rust is a problem. I've used loads of WD40 and then Tunap 103 for days beforehand. I backed off the bolts forward a bit, backward a bit repeatedly for ages to try and avoid snapping. They have all moved a few full turns. The one I've spent most time on has come loose and I can turn with fingers, and it will pull down and push up 2-3mm. But it won't come out. I can tighten it back up and loosen it off again repeatedly but it still won't come out. I assumed there's a captive nut inside but if that's broken loose then I can't understand why I can always tighten the bolt back up - I'd expect it to just spin both ways. Any ideas what's happening here? I can't visualise what's inside there to cause this.
×
×
  • Create New...