Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all

I am looking at getting a ebc in a couple of weeks and not to sure which model/brand to get. I dont want any thing to over the top, just something that will hold boost

with out any spiking or drop off.

Can you just get a one setting ebc or are they all 2 stage?

What is every one using and do you have any problems eg spiking with them?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276752-electronic-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

Well I can't say which is the best because i haven't tried them all but the Jaycar EIBC works perfectly for me and is cheap for an electronic boost controller. It has precise control and you can build boost as fast as you want and hold boost at your chosen setting for as long as your turbo can make it. It has two settings but I only need one setting so i have put the same map on both settings in case someone switches over to the other one. The only drawback is that it comes in a kit form but you may be able to buy one already assembled. There is a comprehensive thread in the DUY section.

Well I can't say which is the best because i haven't tried them all but the Jaycar EIBC works perfectly for me and is cheap for an electronic boost controller. It has precise control and you can build boost as fast as you want and hold boost at your chosen setting for as long as your turbo can make it. It has two settings but I only need one setting so i have put the same map on both settings in case someone switches over to the other one. The only drawback is that it comes in a kit form but you may be able to buy one already assembled. There is a comprehensive thread in the DUY section.

+1 for the IEBC, but without the spelling errors :)

i'm also running the Jaycar IEBC in my stagea, works really well and hold boost perfectly, after about a week of street tuning i had is sitting where i wanted it. i brought one that was already assembled and i just had to wire it in so i cant comment on how easy/hard the assembly is. i went for the IEBC because it was like 1/6th the price of anything from japan at the time, and works with the stock boost solenoid just to keep things covert.

and i did run a Greddy Profec B Spec-II in my 32, it also performed more than well enough for what my setup was. i think it comes down to your budget, any of the good name brand boost controllers eg Greddy/HKS/Blitz are good, and i dont think you will notice any difference between them on a street driven/setup car.

+2 on the GReddy Profec B spec II. I'd heard nothing but good things about them, and since having one put on my car I have to agree that it's very stable. With a bit of fine-tuning of the PFC on my car, I get almost the same amount of power on 7psi (low boost) as I used to get before the EBC install when it was on 10psi. On high boost now (10psi), I have about 18kW more than before the EBC was installed.

The best thing is that I have the same power as before (or more on high boost), but with a much more progressive boost curve and more torque accross the whole rev range.

also one more for the profec, its smaller front makes it easier to put in a position you cant see from outside the car. ie, theives dont see it. the id3 has a largish LCD and can be quite visible from the outside unless you hide it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...