Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dead turbos were recently replaced with highflows and xforce dumps by an amateur (me). Giving it a thrash for the first time at the track today - in third the boost is normal (currently 13psi) until 6000rpm then it drops straight down to ~ 8psi. In fourth it the same thing happens at about 5500rpm. Happens every time like clockwork. Boost gauge just falls back to 8 and engine feels really soft. EBC has a greddy box in the cabin and a profec box in the engine bay....Any ideas what would cause this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276956-boost-builds-well-then-dies/
Share on other sites

Yeah its a 32 GTR (look left :-)

The actuators came off the old turbos (which were working) but the spring in one did seem stiffer than the spring in the other. I do have two spare actuators, but i'm not sure of the condition.

So what do you think is happening? Could it be that when the wastegate opens it snaps open all way so bleeds off too much exhaust?

To test, i guess i should apply vacuum (or boost?) to each actuator and watch how the rod moves, right? What tool would I use to apply the signal and where do i get it?

BTW - thanks all for the input.

Yeah its a 32 GTR (look left :-)

The actuators came off the old turbos (which were working) but the spring in one did seem stiffer than the spring in the other. I do have two spare actuators, but i'm not sure of the condition.

So what do you think is happening? Could it be that when the wastegate opens it snaps open all way so bleeds off too much exhaust?

To test, i guess i should apply vacuum (or boost?) to each actuator and watch how the rod moves, right? What tool would I use to apply the signal and where do i get it?

BTW - thanks all for the input.

The service manual recommends using an air gun with compressed air regulated to 11-13 psi (testing pressure of the source first) and blowing it straight in the hose on the top of the actuator.

You also want to verify that it opens/closes all the way; without being able to see the flap and/or having a point of reference that will be harder.

I don't know much about your boost controller; does it have different settings for different gears or overboost protection?

Regards,

Saliya

Any damage to the engine when the turbos let go, and that would be stock turbos right ???

And at what boost?

Stock turbos, no damage to motor, 13 psi, conservative tune, 11.5 AFR. The turbos were probably 118,000kms old (supposed to be replaced at 100,000 according to Nissan).

Ok both turbo actuators are moving in unison, so it looks like they're ok.

The EBC unit is a greddy profec, I found some instructions HERE

So i guess i'll just go through the setup procedure again. It does have a safety feature that drops boost back down to stock level, so i must be hitting that.

Thanks again.

did the exhaust wheel happen to come off the old turbos at all? if so it may have damaged the cat. a mate of mine had a similar problem where boost was dropping at higher rpm. turned out to be his cat was damaged (rear section had broken off and turned sideways and was blocking the exhaust)

also to check the EBC, i would just disconnect it and try to borrow someones manual controller that is set to a similar boost pressure. if it still drops pressure it isn't the EBC

did the exhaust wheel happen to come off the old turbos at all? if so it may have damaged the cat. a mate of mine had a similar problem where boost was dropping at higher rpm. turned out to be his cat was damaged (rear section had broken off and turned sideways and was blocking the exhaust)

also to check the EBC, i would just disconnect it and try to borrow someones manual controller that is set to a similar boost pressure. if it still drops pressure it isn't the EBC

Yeah the wheel disintegrated, and i removed a fair bit of ex-turbine rubble from in front of the cat matrix (200 ci metalcat). There were no bits stuck in the front of the matrix itself, but i guess they could be lodged further down. I'll take a look at that if the EBC re-training doesnt work.

im putting my money on it being the EBC. especially if it is a greddy, I have a mate with the exact same symptoms at the moment. It shouldnt be the wastegate unless u are running stupid amounts of boost through the car. And if it is the actuators sticking the wastegate shut, shouldnt the boost be creeping up not down?

Id say put on a manual boost controller, test to see if it changes how the car drives, and if it is the EBC then look up how to properly tune the EBC. There are threads in here somewhere.

:P

Edited by lineskee 33
im putting my money on it being the EBC. especially if it is a greddy, I have a mate with the exact same symptoms at the moment.

Has he tried re-running the learning procedure as per the manual i posted above? It says "this process must be done after the installation of Profec, and after any changes are made to the characteristics of the wastegate spring, or out put power of the engine (IE turbo size, intercooler)".

As far as i can tell in my case the Profec is working as designed and i'm just hitting the overboost protection because i've changed the turbos. I just didnt know this was required before i posted.

No he doesnt want to touch it. Sorry mate, i thought u had the newer model of the greddy ebc. with the profec B you just adjust the gain until the boost stops dropping off.

Are you able to increase the overboost value so that it doesnt kick in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...