Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps.

I'm currently doing a Xenon headlight conversion on my non-xenon R34.

Now i'm going to be completely honest, i'm a complete nob when it comes to wiring.

The parker lights and main lights are a straight enought wire job and now work fine.

But the high beams on the xenon's have a 4 wire plug, while the non-xenons only have two.

What's the other two for?????

If it helps, I'm not talking about aftermarket Xenon's here. I'm talking about the complete headlight unit off a R34. Oh and yes my xenon's came with a ballast pack and everything.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Forget my first post. Only found out that the parker lights fit straight in. None of the main or high beam lights have wiring up to existing non-xenon loom.

Any one else have a clue. Excuse my noobness

Edited by Chang

I converted a R34 back to the factory HID's or xenons,what ever you want to call them last week. its a fairly simple process,just abit fidly. takes about 2 hours or so. altho should be able to do it quicker then that now iv already done it.

Do you have the globes for it already?

you will need a socket set and a 8mm open or closed ended spanner, you will also need a fairly long extension bar for your socket set too as there are a few tight places you need to get to.

Are you in SA?

Jack

Nope, i'm in Auckland NZ lol.

I've searched a couple of threads, and found out AU compliance replace the Xenons with Non-Xenons. So I guess it'll be a easy conversion, as most of the wiring should still be intact.

However, mines factory non-xenon so there's absolutely no wiring for the Xenons to wire up to. That's what i'm trying to figure out right now.

oh i see, do you have the ballast pack,globes,fittings and the wiring for it already then? if you already have it all lay it out clearly on a table take a picture and send it to me and ill show you where things are soposed to go,you will also need to remove a fitting from the headlight itself which can be a little fidly. you will only need to do this if you have the factory fitted set from another car.if you are buying an aftermarket kit then just buy it to suit your headlight fittings, which are a H1 globe.

There not a hard thing to wire up even if your car wasnt fitted with any of the wiring.after all they are just another type of globe, the ballast packs just need power supplied to them,(from the loom that goes to the normal low beam globe thats in there at the moment) then you just need to mount the ballast packs and rout some wiring.

Edited by Jack88

I couldn't be bothered wiring up the Xenon's so I've just exchanged all the Non-Xenon wiring into the Xenon headlight casing.

Here's what I found out during the conversion.

Non-Xenon parker lamps are the same as Xenon ones, i.e a direct fit with same plugs

Non-Xenon highbeam plug is the same as Xenon high beam plug.

So technically it's not a Xenon conversion. Oh well lol. Thanks for the help anyway Jack88. Will ask you in future is I do decide to run the ballast etc.

yea the high beams and parkers arnt Xenon any way,they just use normal halogen globes. only the low beams are.

If you still have both ballasts and HID globes and wiring etc im willing to purchase them off you. PM me with a price if your interested mate.

cheers,

Jack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...