Jump to content
SAU Community

What To Do Before Turbo Upgrade

wayde

By wayde,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wayde Enthusiast

wayde

Posted
Posted

i just want to know what to do before i can upgrade to a high mount turbo. Hopefully keeping stock internals if possible.

Fmic, 3 inch hks exhaust tyrbo back, upgraded suspension and slotted hd brakes. Boost controller, turbo timer, bosch 550 hp fuel pump. I know this car had a 500 hp engine before i got it now has half cut engine new stock turbo and gear box. I think the heads from old engine but not sure.

Cheers

Wayde

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277192-what-to-do-before-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites
ONE-VIA Collaborator

ONE-VIA

Posted
Posted
i just want to know what to do before i can upgrade to a high mount turbo. Hopefully keeping stock internals if possible.

Fmic, 3 inch hks exhaust tyrbo back, upgraded suspension and slotted hd brakes. Boost controller, turbo timer, bosch 550 hp fuel pump. I know this car had a 500 hp engine before i got it now has half cut engine new stock turbo and gear box. I think the heads from old engine but not sure.

Cheers

Wayde

is that what you have or did you just answer your own question

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted

Make sure you uprade the AFM with a new turbo. They tend to suck just that tad extra air lol. After my turbo upgrade when I had a PFC, I had to get a Z32 AFM to manage the extra volume of air.

Turbz RB-25 Experienced

Turbz RB-25

Posted
Posted
clutch and diff will need to be done, but depends on power.... there are actually some dipsets out there that will highmount a 200rwkw turbo setup just for looks...

Wrong....

I have 312rwkw my diff is fine. A mate with the exact setup as mine has 364 rwkw and his diff is fine and has lasted 3 years now and still going.

Why would you get an upgraded diff for 200rwkw?

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

ok, so you are going to tell me that a stock diff is as good as a mechanical one for hi-power applications.... :rofl:

looks like every serious race car in the world has just wasted a bunch of money.... what idiots

have you ever driven a car with a mechanical diff? i'd guess not if you think that the stocker is fine for close to 400rwkw

i have the same power level you do and my diff was probably the best non power upgrade i have ever done

Turbz RB-25 Experienced

Turbz RB-25

Posted
Posted
ok, so you are going to tell me that a stock diff is as good as a mechanical one for hi-power applications.... :rofl:

looks like every serious race car in the world has just wasted a bunch of money.... what idiots

have you ever driven a car with a mechanical diff? i'd guess not if you think that the stocker is fine for close to 400rwkw

i have the same power level you do and my diff was probably the best non power upgrade i have ever done

200rwkw is hardly a "high power application".

Don't go off tangents.

The person on this thread asked "what should I do prior to upgrading my turbo?"

At around 200rwkw (what a stock turbo is usually capable of pulling reasonabley safely), it WOULD be a waste of money to upgrade the diff. Standard diff is more than sufficient to support 200rwkw.... :D

Unless you can prove otherwise?

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
Wrong....

I have 312rwkw my diff is fine. A mate with the exact setup as mine has 364 rwkw and his diff is fine and has lasted 3 years now and still going.

Why would you get an upgraded diff for 200rwkw?

no to mention... if you actually READ my post you'd realise that i said the clutch and diff will need to be done depending on power level.....

the turbo is not mentioned, thus the power is at this point an unknown quantity... and at no point did i say a diff was needed for 200rwkw

what i said was that some people are stupid enough to highmount a 20rwkw setup for looks only....

also fwiw i personally would definately get a diff/weldy for 200rwkw... my rolla is currently having a 150rwkw build and it already has a welded diff

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

and a diff is never a waste of money... a weldy can be had for virtually nothing.

with the 4ac in my rolla putting out an epic 40rwkw you can STILL notice the difference with a locked diff

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
If you read his first post, you will notice he has the stock turbo on it............ :rofl:

so the point of this thread is what should he do before he upgrades his turbo to a stock on is it?

LOL

back on topic,

clutch

injectors

ecu

AFM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...