Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so

my neighbours started whinging about my car, so i cabletied my silencer in til i could get an exhaust shop too weld nuts too the inside... figured was a bettter option that getting a complaint to my agent.

anyway, back on topic, this 4.5" silencer has broken free somewhere in malvern/camberwell/toorak area... so if any one sees one lying on the side of the road, or has one spare, let me know.

or alternatively, if you know of any cheap units renting in a similar area, that would be better.

twenty words or less version- needed: 4.5" silencer, 1 33GTR wheel centrecap

-Ryan

Sorry for your finacial loss but I have to ask....cable ties on a hot exhaust?

Surely you heard it drop off, it would have got loud quick.

Everyone knows dodgy exhaust work = the use of coat hanger wire :P

This is a joke right? cable ties....

lmao.. this has to be a wind up... who uses plastic cable ties to hold hot exhausts on?

I mean cable ties can hold a majority of the skyline together, but there are some things that cables ties and duct tape can't be used on. exhausts being one of them.

hey, they were the UV resistant ones which i thought might do better with heat,i knew they wouldnt last long, but hoped one might go before the other, and could replace it from the spares stash. making descisions sedated= fail . and i have used them around exhausts heaps... just not on them... i must admit, they lasted a fair while(many drives), then all of that night, i checked them at the shops, then 5mins later got home, GONE.

so WTB 4.5" silencer, 1 33GTR wheel centrecap

Edited by RB_Ryan
hey, they were the UV resistant ones which i thought might do better with heat,i knew they wouldnt last long, but hoped one might go before the other, and could replace it from the spares stash. making descisions sedated= fail . and i have used them around exhausts heaps... just not on them... i must admit, they lasted a fair while(many drives), then all of that night, i checked them at the shops, then 5mins later got home, GONE.

so WTB 4.5" silencer, 1 33GTR wheel centrecap

Probably out of your price range, but I highly recommend a Varex exhaust. I've had two now, and I cannot praise them enough.

Roar, or stock Excel-like silence at the touch of a button. They're very, very effective.

I think it'll be more useful if you post your pipe diameter. somehow i don't think you inlet pipe on the muffler is 4.5".

the part of the cannon where the silencer is inserted in to, is 4.5" in diameter...

ha ha, i was starting to wonder when ur neighbours will get tired of your car

maybe its time for a smaller exhaust :)

i think Phil(philmak) is selling R33 GTR wheels with RE55s on them, so you might want to ask him if he can spare a center cap

and RE55's?

last time i checked it was $1100 for the R33 GTR wheels with RE55s on them, the RE55s are at 60% i think

EDIT: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=393111

i think they just sold a couple of days ago, but u can call him to find out

if you want those RE55s the new owner is selling them,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...st-t277879.html

you might want to have a look at them in person, coz in pictures they seemed to have a couple more track days left in them.

Probably out of your price range, but I highly recommend a Varex exhaust. I've had two now, and I cannot praise them enough.

Roar, or stock Excel-like silence at the touch of a button. They're very, very effective.

Overpriced considering they are still illegal :)

Cheaper to get a piece of metal cut

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...