Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd get them painted. You'll get a nice clean unmarked surface again. Only thing is you'd have to spray the rest accordingly.

I don't even know how previous owners could do some things they do to the interior. A car I checked out last year had a horendous interior - like someone had thrown some corrosive acid all over the dash.

+ I have a sticky bit like in the 2nd pic you've got. Would this be from some sort of adhesive used to hold attach a gauge pod or something?

Edited by peterw

Nothing, the cars been sitting in the sun with double sided tape, some effort and some goo remover may work but the best option is to paint the whole dash peice, check out the DIY section.

You can also do the door trims the same way.

You can remove residual adhesive with Double D Eucalyptus Oil or Kero or Tar/Bug Remover.

That last pic looks like damage by someone with long fingernails or someone trying to get out of the car in a damn hurry from red/blue flashing lights?

Mm thanks guys. I'll probably up painting the lot black as per factory.

Its just weird cause the rest of the interior is perfect, the steering wheel is basically new :|

Anyway of getting rid of the stuff in the 2nd pic? Don't have the $ to cut it out and put a screen in there....

K&N wax and grease remover available from most autobarn,super cheap etc stores will take care of the glue residue from double sided tape no problem.

the last few pics are where the latex coating on the dash and plastic trim around the window switches have been worn/scratched off and will need repainting.

heres the link for headunit removal.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...al-t190825.html

Edited by Jack88

You'll need to use eucalyptus oil or something similar (as above) , but check what it does to the dash materiel in a hidden away spot first before you rub the shit out of the dash.(2nd pic) If your lucky it will all come off without effecting surface too much, then go over it with some dash cleaner (armorol)

In the 4th pic down that latex coating here is fkd, so with that whole dash fascia you can gently rub all the latex coating all off (very sore fingers) and hope the plastic under it is good enough to be polished back to a nice shine. (did this on mine, not 100% but good enough until i decide to paint it) But more than likely it will need to be painted. If you paint it just sand the latex off first. Or just buy a dash fascia off ebay. good luck

a citrus goo remover will be ok for those white marks in ur first pic, duno about the rest. definetly get the trim near the door painted, will make it look 10times better. someone went to war with that thing lol prolly previous owner parked in the same spot everyday and the sun just killed it. go to wreckers and see if u can even get a new part. goodluck bud

if you wanted to make the passenger part of the dash look a bit better, you can go see autobarn and they sell dashmats to suit R33's. they probably wont have stock, but they get them from Command Auto Group. I have one on my silvia in black. looks good IMO.

Eucalyptus oil will work, but you may see that after the tape is removed that under the sticker will be a slightly different colour to the rest of the dash.

maybe just replace the fascia and the plastic part ont he door. even just take them off a 25t. i cant see them costing that much!?

2nd pic - definately Eucalyptus oil and then armourall the dash.

Eucalyptus oil didn't work... For the 2nd pic, it just made the dash a different colour around it and didn't really take anything off after hard scrubbing.. When I tried to get the white circle, the clear around it vanished but still left most of the white... :)

Plan B/C.

Do you think that "T-Cut Polish" in 'black' can be used? Show your car to your local car parts store to confirm.

It's used to blend surrounding colours to the basic 'black' if you get it in 'black'.

Black shoe polish on some hidden 'test' area can be Plan C/D

Ok use "Goo remover" (supermarket laundry asile) for the sticky shit.

As for the door trim, remove & take paint off with nail polish remover sand back with super fine paper & respray- I just did

my door trims & centre console they came up a treat! Two days work in total-F*ck paying someone esle to do it I paid

$24 for some pressure packs in colour & clear matt (autobarn/supercheap).

Get into it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...