Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After your remove the upper an lower intake to clean carbon buildup. I see the ignition coils on both left an right on the valve cover an in the middle there is 6 pot cylinder like holes with carbon build up. Is that were the fuel injectors located plus could you also remove that to clean up all the deposits. Looks like some small valve butterflies in it build up with carbon deposit

This is in reply to the original post in 2009.

I don't have a view on the GDI systems, but I disagree that the purpose of EGR and PCV systems are to re-burn unburnt fuel.

The purpose of an EGR system is to effectively reduce the displacement of the engine under certain operating conditions.

It does this by replacing some of the gas with gas that doesn't have oxygen in it (ie exhaust gas).

An analogy would be running your car at the top of Mount Everest - less oxygen, less fuel, less power, but better economy when cruising.

Thus EGR system is for economy, but not primarily by reburning unburnt fuel.

My understanding, of PCV valves, which might be wrong, is that the vacuum in the intake manifold helps draw out the small amounts of blow by that occur in an N/A engine. (Doesn't work with boost pressure). This would help prevent water and fuel vapour contaminating the oil.

By putting a catch can in place is a good fix if it is correctly hooked up. It also stops these vapours venting out to atmosphere.

Therefore, PCV (valve cover breather) systems are for engine longevity, and reducing blow by "emissions". I can't see how it is a method of increasing fuel economy.

Just my 2c on those points!

There are plenty of hydrocarbons left over from the combustion process, re-introducing these back into the cylinder can improve economy, more so if the recirculated gasses are cooled beforehand.

You are quite correct with the PCV operation, but catching the moisture will only mean you are emptying another can, for no real gain.

There are plenty of hydrocarbons left over from the combustion process, re-introducing these back into the cylinder can improve economy, more so if the recirculated gasses are cooled beforehand.

You are quite correct with the PCV operation, but catching the moisture will only mean you are emptying another can, for no real gain.

Note I said "not primarily by reburning unburnt fuel". Some stuff will certainly burn, but the exhaust gas is mainly an inert gas that reduces the effective displacement. I'd say any economy gains would be 90% due to the effective reduction in displacement, and maybe 10% due to reburning fuel.

Or ok. Am question my skyline is running rich an the only code am getting is the p0100 is this the reason my I have a engine running rich cuz I dis suspect fuel injectors

If you do a simple search on the code you will find it relates to the AFM. You can either buy a new AFM from Nissan for $330au or I sell aftermarket ones on my site for much less. ;)

http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/nissan-m35-stagea-aftermarket-afm/

After your remove the upper an lower intake to clean carbon buildup. I see the ignition coils on both left an right on the valve cover an in the middle there is 6 pot cylinder like holes with carbon build up. Is that were the fuel injectors located plus could you also remove that to clean up all the deposits. Looks like some small valve butterflies in it build up with carbon deposit

The swirl butterflies are usually caked with crap, you need to clean the entire plenum and runners, right down to the valves.

spector171, on 14 Jul 2014 - 9:02 PM, said:

After your remove the upper an lower intake to clean carbon buildup. I see the ignition coils on both left an right on the valve cover an in the middle there is 6 pot cylinder like holes with carbon build up. Is that were the fuel injectors located plus could you also remove that to clean up all the deposits. Looks like some small valve butterflies in it build up with carbon deposit

The ignition coils are in the middle of the black plastic valve cover. The injectors are down in the V under the lower plenum. You can quite easily see they have hard fuel lines bolted to them.

Whatever you do, don't remove them. They are not your fault, the AFM is faulty.

Were can I buy intake manifold upper an lower gasket for the 2003 Nissan skyline v35 250gt online. The g35 gasket shape different online so who have a website that sells these gasket

They are re-usable metal gaskets.

I have a 2003 Nissan skyline v35 250gt and upon removing the top intake manifold I discovered alot of this black carbon build up also after removing the middle section I also discover oil in the intake coming from the pcv valve. Why is oil in the intake manifold plus what's the purpose of all that black soot looking carbon on the valve butterflies etc. Anybody need help

All modern engines suck oil fumes in from the crankcase and burn them to lower emissions.

The black soot is because your engine has an 'EGR' valve (Exhaust gas recirculation) to improve emissions and get greater fuel economy when cruising and on light load. It needs to be cleaned out every 50,000k's or so.

Or ok I'll try this week end. Since the gaskets them are reuseable

You should be fine, as long as you don't damage one.

Degreaser, kero, tooth brushes and scrapers. You will need plenty of rags too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...