Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I'm new here and I've heard about some intresting engine swaps and engine combinations come out of Austrailia, like the RB30 with the 26 head, etc. I told my friends and they dared me to ask you guys to show us the craziest engine swaps Yanks have never seen! Show me V8s in S13s or any other work-inteisive but ultimately bizzare engine swaps!

There is one in this thread

S13 Conversion

Where the guy has put an RB25DET into his S13, added a second turbo (making it a DETT) and then replacing the turbos with HKS 2530s. Said to make about 400rwkw. I think that classifies as a crazy S13 swap.

:(

Originally posted by neil_se

13b turbo, 2jz, 1jz, vg30det, rb26dett, rb25dett have all been done in australia. putting a v8 in would be sacrilege.

Even a twin turbo Nissan 4.5L quad cam V8? :)

Originally posted by neil_se

13b turbo, 2jz, 1jz, vg30det, rb26dett, rb25dett have all been done in australia. putting a v8 in would be sacrilege.

Links/Pics please!:)

the last 3 of those conversion have all been performed by TTracing in brisbane. the rb25dett is (as far as is known) australia's fastest silvia, the vg30 is owned by the owner of TTracing but was only completed the night before jamboree so i'm still waiting to hear about it's power and times. his son owns an rb26dett silvia but i haven't heard much about that.

the 13b turbo silvia is also in queensland and is almost finished i think. i have heard of the 1jz and 2jz being done but i haven't seen them and can't exactly remember where.

rb25dett silvia

S2400116.JPG

vg30det silvia

S2400115.JPG

my mate, is using my old engine, making it around 200kw's at the crank (not much, but its remaining NA) before nos, and its going in his s13, its gonna be using 100hp+ nos setup.

Originally posted by dangerous_daveo

Even a twin turbo Nissan 4.5L quad cam V8? :)

Already been done... it's in Newcastle/Hunter in a shed (Maitland) except it's a nutso NA one with 8-throttle induction and mega-spec cams. Hooked up to Skyline 5spd 'box and GT-R diff that's been cut-n-shut to fit.

Yet to run more than a few hundred meters as it has problems with gearbox vibration they can't sort out once the car gets over 40km/h

There's also a Supra in Tas with a JGTC-spec 3UZ-FE in NA-trim.

Very cool...:D

Originally posted by Sonic

There's also a Supra in Tas with a JGTC-spec 3UZ-FE in NA-trim.

Very cool...:P

Theres a what down here? Can't say I've heard of that beast.

And whats a 3UZFE? I thought there was only the 1UZFE 4.0l and the 4.7l 2UZFE in the Cruisers?

I'll believe it when I see it!

cheers,

floody

The 3UZFE is out of the Japanese Celsior... and I think its the Lexus SC430 in Oz?

Bugger the 3UZFE, someone should put the 1GZFE V12 out of the Toyota Century into a Trueno or an Altezza, cut n` shut, I know but... can you imagine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...