Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Case closed.

1.jpg

case reopened.

actually to be realistic, being a 17 year old you shouldn't be buying any 2 door coupe, esp not an import. your insurance premium will be about 1/3rd the cost of the car.

maybe go for a secondhand Lexus IS250 or something?

wow man 35k.. my first car was... a hyundai accent ... and only recently upgraded to my n/a 34...

planning on upgrading later to evo 9 or 34 gt-r, was gonna mod my 34 now but id rather save.

n/a skylines arent bad for a first car though? i haven't driven alot of cars but for me its got a fair bit of torque .. looks nice too. n/a supra? i almost went for one of those. very nice cars.

with 35k you have ultimate choice on n/a cars pretty much mate :|

id save it up for later once your off your p's though.

*edit* alot of the n/a supras i saw in perth had been driven alot. dont think km's matter that much for a first car though, be a stinge and enjoy a much nicer car later on :)

Edited by Jonno34

Most ppl at 17 are coming off 2 wheels eh?

Now that ur just about grown up, it's hard to make a split decision over 4 wheels or a home!

$35K eh?

How about a GOLF brand of...

CARAVAN with bogey wheels !

Did you know that Tim, Richard and Jeremy just Luuuuuuuvv CARAVANS and what they can DO WITH THEM ! ! ! ? ? ? :)

35K man?

Yes! 350z's are for sale starting from high 20's now. So a cleaner one would be say low 30's and then sell the rims it come with and add some nice ones. Done.

case reopened.

A 350z is more sporty and more of a younger persons car than a G35 if you ask me. If he was 30y/o+ then maybe a G35.

Need to check if these cars are legal in your state though, because the 350z even though its an N/A is putting out some pretty decent power, which in Victoria is an issue as power/weight restrictions apply.

You're 17 and asking in another thread where to buy an R34 GTR?

Also pretty sure 350z is on the not allowed list in NSW for P platers.

As others have said. Buy a shitter... it's more fun anyway. You can jump it and whatnot... and it doesn't matter that much if you do too big of a jump!

looks like he is getting a R34.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Im...-I-t278236.html

LOL @ his replies.

Some good advice in here. I tried to get full comp on my r33 for a mate who is 21 and the cost through suncorp was about from memory $4500 per year. Very costly for a youngster.

See and not even a :teehee:

my first car was a coupe!

a ford laser KA 2 door `82 with the big block 1.5L

seriosly

$35k + gov grant of $14k

$49K to spend on (assuming) your first home.

get a family member to live in it for a year or two and give you just enough rent to cover mortgage and rates

then rent it out on the market for full rent price or have a bachellor pad at the age of 19

i wish i has $35k to spend on anything let alone a first car - somehow i dont believe you actually have this amount, however this is derrived by a quick squiz of bank propaganda with how much you currently earn and how much you can afford to pay back each week.

hey if you actually have $35k to spend then i'm very jelous and i hate you for it

but i also believe your nose has grown a few inches at the start of the post...

In all honesty, dont listen to people telling you what to get, get what you'd like, you want :D N/a skyline i reckon would suit nicely, and you posting on a skyline site makes me think you'd like that too :D

I just got my self an r33 gts for 10k, but ive been obsessed with r33's since i was 12 :) im now 17, and couldnt be happier :) get a 2 door :) they look way sexy.. but i do like r32 4 doors. but with you having 35k, you could probly get a really really nice r34 gt ;)

I was gunna save for a house deposit... but car came first :) but do what make you happy man, if you have the money, enjoy it, good luck to ya :)

why don't people stop being f**king lazy and do a bit of research of their own instead of thinking 'well hmm theres a skyline in FnF they must be good', and constantly asking forum members to decide for them.

Farken oath. HTFU and pick your own car instaed of waiting for someone to tell you what to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...