Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Quick question.

Thinking about putting a new engine together as a part time project,

I have a set of 8.5:1 Comp forged rb25 pistons and im thinging of using a GTR crank and rods in a RB25 block,

I know the longer stroke will increase the comp ratio but by how much (assume standard thickness head gasket)

I think I worked it out to be 8.8:1 but not sure if I worked it out properly.

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278080-gtr-crank-rods-rb25-pistons/
Share on other sites

2mm extra stroke = 1mm extra piston rise. So they might be OK depending on where the rings are located in the RB25 pistons and how thick their piston crown is. Machining 1 mm of the piston crown is no big deal for most forged pistons.

Cheers

Gary

Oh I see, I confused myself lol

I have 6mm between the top ring and the base of the piston crown (not the domed part)

I should have measured it before i pulled the engine down

Good luck with that one. I forsee a long future of huge problems for you with this. I hope it all works out but personally I would advise against it considering you can easily get the correct piston for the job.

By taking 1mm off the piston you will be altering the design of the crown. You can have it machined to be identical but by the time you've done it and stuffed around for a couple of weeks, you would easily be half way to a new set. You also reduce the amount of material on the top of the piston which is not such a good idea. It is possible to do it and most manufacturers leave some room to move but it's better if you don't, if you don't have to.

When it is all done and finished, you will be bitterly disappointed with the result as it won't give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit.

Your cheap stroker will turn into an expensive waste of time.

Good luck with that one. I forsee a long future of huge problems for you with this. I hope it all works out but personally I would advise against it considering you can easily get the correct piston for the job.

By taking 1mm off the piston you will be altering the design of the crown. You can have it machined to be identical but by the time you've done it and stuffed around for a couple of weeks, you would easily be half way to a new set. You also reduce the amount of material on the top of the piston which is not such a good idea. It is possible to do it and most manufacturers leave some room to move but it's better if you don't, if you don't have to.

When it is all done and finished, you will be bitterly disappointed with the result as it won't give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit.

Your cheap stroker will turn into an expensive waste of time.

Yeah thats what I figured, I was only really looking at it due to the fact that R33 rb26 cranks already have the large oil pump drive and buying a 2nd hand GTR crank would've been around the same cost as having a crank collar fitted to a 25 crank.

cheers for the advise though :(

Prob with that is...im closer to canberra and cbf sending a crank to QLD and back

lol, I see your dilema.

Have you considered getting it done by someone in Canberra? That's a normal price. The collar can be shipped to you for little over $100 and your engineer will have no problems fitting it. ~$100-$140

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...