Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok then where do i start. I've got an R33Gts-t. Its a standard engine but with a race head gasket. Its got a greddy inlet plenum with 740 injectors and a turbometics A.65 series turbo and a full 4" straight through exhaust. I've got a race rad and a greddy oil cooler and filter relocator. Its putting out 549bhp on the top map. Heres the problem, im having really bad heat soak/transfer to everything under the bonnet. Im after some advice and ideas as to how i can reduce the heat problem. Its not overheating or anything but everything is really hot. I've wrapped the manifold and got a heat shield on the turbo. Im considering putting an water/oil cooler on the gearbox to help there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/
Share on other sites

lol @ 409KW on a stock RB25!

But even so... its an engine. It gets hot. Unless its sapping the performance its not actually bad to have a hot engine...

If your really worried raise the rear of the bonnet, or get a vented bonnet.

Edited by gotRICE?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4702003
Share on other sites

... raise the rear of the bonnet, ...
How can that help? It's a high air pressure region at the base of the windscreen. How else do you think you get air in through the heater vents. Or how those "reverse scoop" bonnets worked on old-school Falcons and Commodores? All you will do is push air into the engine bay. Then you will have overheating problems because there is no pressure differential to allow cool air to come in through the radiator.

Back to the original problem - it's an engine making lots of power, of course it's going to generate some heat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4702024
Share on other sites

thanks for your replys guys. I have a carbon triple vent bonnet on it already. I've been considering an intercooler mister to try and cool the inlet charge a little and maybe put a mister on the oil cooler while im at it. I've also looked into fitting an electric water pump which would keep the water circulating after the engine is switched off for a while until the engine temperature has dropped to a level im happy with. What about venting air from vents at the bottom of my do-luck from bumper up into the engine bay at the inlet plenum and manifold to try and keep them cooler when driving?

Regards, Thwish

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4702206
Share on other sites

Is it a track car or road?

Do you always get heat soak? or just after a short drive?

raising the rear of the bonnet will kind of help, ONLY if youre not racing that is.. ie on the streets.

Why dont you take out the AC? Or perhaps run a few elec fans between the fmic and the radiator?

The other question, is it a high mount or low mount turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4702229
Share on other sites

If its a stainless exhaust manifold, good luck keeping the heat out.

Gauge the engine temp via the ecu, see what it is reading, watch as it heats up, fans come on and if temp movement decreases.

Another thing, is it too lean???? AFR?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4703295
Share on other sites

Again thanks for all your comments guys. Ok then, i'll try and answer as many questions as i can.

1. Its used 99% on the road but gets really used lol.

2. Its running on a Greddy/Trust Topmount stainless steel manifold.

3. Dont know the actual temps as i dont have any sensors measuring it.

4. I just go by how hand hot the actual inlet plenum and intercooling piping gets.

5. The temp gauge in the dash doesn't show it going over half way so its not overheating as such but just want to get the overall temp down as it cant be doing much good for power and engine wear.

Thanks for all your input, it is much appreciated. Thwish

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4703399
Share on other sites

Again thanks for all your comments guys. Ok then, i'll try and answer as many questions as i can.

1. Its used 99% on the road but gets really used lol.

2. Its running on a Greddy/Trust Topmount stainless steel manifold.

3. Dont know the actual temps as i dont have any sensors measuring it.

4. I just go by how hand hot the actual inlet plenum and intercooling piping gets.

5. The temp gauge in the dash doesn't show it going over half way so its not overheating as such but just want to get the overall temp down as it cant be doing much good for power and engine wear.

Thanks for all your input, it is much appreciated. Thwish

Point 3 needs to be covered. How do you know it's hotter than NORMAL, unless you know that actual temperature.

The fact is, even a standard RB engine is usually too hot to touch anywhere once it's been for a 10 minute drive. I'm guessing yours is the same, but if you can take a temp reading with a laser pointer or temp gauge on a multimeter, then I will be able to tell you if it's normal or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4703418
Share on other sites

why not put a temp sensor in the intercooler piping just after the turbo but before the intercooler and another one after the intercooler just before the plenum to see what the actual intake temp is and if it is affecting how the intercooler is doing it's job. if you really wanted you could have 2 on the cold side of the cooler, 1 just after the intercooler and one in the plenum to see if it is having any effect. but i would doubt it is having much of an effect as the air is passing pretty quick through the plenum and piping, but if it is causing the intercooler to heat up dramatically then you will be losing power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278215-heat-soak/#findComment-4705135
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...