Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

task force 'diagonal'...

... :)

why do they always use such lame names?

they don't want to make what they're doin obvious so they come up with a name for it, like the anti-bikie task force Avatar.

Read the Sunday Mail today, they've already picked up 3 cars and at this time their gathering evidence also known as trolling car forums for hot spots.

The photo with the boost controller in the ashtray looks like its a R32 :)

so hydraulics are part of the hoon thing? :)

the way they word it for the causual reader "it alters the hieght of the car" makes it sound like its for performance reasons. usually once its installed the car handles worse than it did before. i dont get why they illegal they not really dangerous unless you gota monster setup to get the car way off the ground or if you stupid enough to do it while driving.

so you cant modify your car to handle worse, thereby making you drive slower around corners and you cant modify your car with coilovers improving the handling.

bovs increase power :banana: lol

love the hoons strike back thing :banana: next week is hoons declare war

Edited by Inline 6

yeah, read the article. had a chuckle. in some parts they actually try to explain the mods in lay terms... but fail. and in others, yeah, they do what dan has pointed out. meh, whatever. wont find a BOV tucked up under my wheel arch, or nitrous hooked up to my carby while im bustin the hydros cause im sick.

lol. STAR force officers fast roping out of black hawks into the vili's parking lot? :)

all because of that american gangster-style hydraulic suspension... such a shame.

Edited by scandyflick

time for f n furious qoutes, apparently the cops like to refer to the movie for their accurate modding information more than i do for corny laughs :)

Johnny Tran: [Dom walks away] TORETTO! TORETTO! SWAT came into my house, disrespected my whole family because somebody narc'd me out! And you know what? IT WAS YOU!

[Dom punches Tran and a brawl ensues]

Dom: *I never narc'd on nobody! I never narc'd on nobody!*

when they getting specially modified cars to chase the hoons, put hydros on the cop car. thatll make the hoons think twice about making a runner

Edited by Inline 6

In the Sunday mail article Kate Kyriacou quotes Constable Neil Hastie as saying that "The blow-off valves - which are normally on top of the engine - are being concealed in the wheel arches. ...They know these things are illegal so they are putting plenty of effort into hiding them better"

This just isn't true. The standard position for most bov's is just after the intercooler - concealed in the side of the front bar.

While he does recognise that bov's are factory fitted and (when fitted correctly) legal, it sounds like there is going to be a continuation of the uninformed view of "Your blow-off valve looks like it's hidden down there so it must be illegal"....REDICULOUS!

I know that on RB motors the BOV is sitting on the crossover pipe in the engine bay.....but i have seen it on the likes of the 180's etc that the stock BOV is sitting behind the front bar.....so does that make them illegal even though they came stock????

post-31501-1247452792_thumb.jpg

BLOODY IDIOTS

this new breed of street hoons are using illegal suspension parts to enable them to take shortcuts in races simmilar to whats done with a feather in the famous video game "mariokart" ghost stage. there are currently no confirmed deaths resulting from the use of hydraulics but its not the majority voting public that use them so better safe than sorry we get rid of them

sorry thought id have a go at journalism dosnt seem that hard :D

Edited by Inline 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...