Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My question is.....

Has anyone tried taking a pressure source from the pipe that comes directly off the turbos and mounting the solenoid on the turbo side of the engine thus keeping the run of the hoses as short as possible?!?

My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

Edited by DSTROY
My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

This is on the 26 right?

If so, did u try it any other way before and was getting spike?

Where exactly did u take the pressure source from? Any pics?

  • 9 months later...

old thread i know but saves me starting a new one :D

ive got a profec b spec 2 installed, ive got it running 13.2 (ish)psi on high boost, holds it steady no problems, but when i flick through the menu and get to PEAK BOOST it shows around 14.2 (ish)psi

i never actualy see this 14psi on the screan, why is this?

also is it ok to spike 1psi ? obviously no spike would be better, but can this do any harm?

hopefuly get some good answers, its been worrying me abit :S

cheers

i didn't read the whole thread, but on stock turbo there is no point going over 12 psi anyway....

just run it on your 12 psi setting and the 13psi spike wont matter...

fwiw i run 19psi with the gain on full for a 21psi spike on a blitz dsbc spec s (same same but different) to make the car a little more aggressive

however i also run a progressive timing map so when the boost spikes the timing doesn't

That peak u are seeing is the spike on gear changes and happens so fast its really nothing to worry about.

I cut down my spiking by putting the solenoid closer to the turbos and keeping the run of the hoses to the actuators as short as possible but it still spikes within 1.5-2 psi.

also forgot to say it only happens when you rev out 1st gear, other gears seem ok

my boost control solenoid is mounted under the air filters, so the hoses going to the wastegates are pretty short !

as long as that 1psi of peak isnt doin any harm im fine with it hehe

profec solenoids pulse too much air out, use a restrictor. Also dont run cheap silicon hose that expands, make sure you run rubber hoses and keep them as short as possible, run signal from the hot pipe.

Blitz dual solenoid is the best, gfb atomic bleed valve is better than the profec comes with an inbuilt restrictor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
×
×
  • Create New...