Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My question is.....

Has anyone tried taking a pressure source from the pipe that comes directly off the turbos and mounting the solenoid on the turbo side of the engine thus keeping the run of the hoses as short as possible?!?

My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

Edited by DSTROY
My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

This is on the 26 right?

If so, did u try it any other way before and was getting spike?

Where exactly did u take the pressure source from? Any pics?

  • 9 months later...

old thread i know but saves me starting a new one :D

ive got a profec b spec 2 installed, ive got it running 13.2 (ish)psi on high boost, holds it steady no problems, but when i flick through the menu and get to PEAK BOOST it shows around 14.2 (ish)psi

i never actualy see this 14psi on the screan, why is this?

also is it ok to spike 1psi ? obviously no spike would be better, but can this do any harm?

hopefuly get some good answers, its been worrying me abit :S

cheers

i didn't read the whole thread, but on stock turbo there is no point going over 12 psi anyway....

just run it on your 12 psi setting and the 13psi spike wont matter...

fwiw i run 19psi with the gain on full for a 21psi spike on a blitz dsbc spec s (same same but different) to make the car a little more aggressive

however i also run a progressive timing map so when the boost spikes the timing doesn't

That peak u are seeing is the spike on gear changes and happens so fast its really nothing to worry about.

I cut down my spiking by putting the solenoid closer to the turbos and keeping the run of the hoses to the actuators as short as possible but it still spikes within 1.5-2 psi.

also forgot to say it only happens when you rev out 1st gear, other gears seem ok

my boost control solenoid is mounted under the air filters, so the hoses going to the wastegates are pretty short !

as long as that 1psi of peak isnt doin any harm im fine with it hehe

profec solenoids pulse too much air out, use a restrictor. Also dont run cheap silicon hose that expands, make sure you run rubber hoses and keep them as short as possible, run signal from the hot pipe.

Blitz dual solenoid is the best, gfb atomic bleed valve is better than the profec comes with an inbuilt restrictor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...