Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My question is.....

Has anyone tried taking a pressure source from the pipe that comes directly off the turbos and mounting the solenoid on the turbo side of the engine thus keeping the run of the hoses as short as possible?!?

My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

Edited by DSTROY
My car is set up like this with my solenoid mounted under my air filters and i have basically zero spike even running 18psi

This is on the 26 right?

If so, did u try it any other way before and was getting spike?

Where exactly did u take the pressure source from? Any pics?

  • 9 months later...

old thread i know but saves me starting a new one :D

ive got a profec b spec 2 installed, ive got it running 13.2 (ish)psi on high boost, holds it steady no problems, but when i flick through the menu and get to PEAK BOOST it shows around 14.2 (ish)psi

i never actualy see this 14psi on the screan, why is this?

also is it ok to spike 1psi ? obviously no spike would be better, but can this do any harm?

hopefuly get some good answers, its been worrying me abit :S

cheers

i didn't read the whole thread, but on stock turbo there is no point going over 12 psi anyway....

just run it on your 12 psi setting and the 13psi spike wont matter...

fwiw i run 19psi with the gain on full for a 21psi spike on a blitz dsbc spec s (same same but different) to make the car a little more aggressive

however i also run a progressive timing map so when the boost spikes the timing doesn't

That peak u are seeing is the spike on gear changes and happens so fast its really nothing to worry about.

I cut down my spiking by putting the solenoid closer to the turbos and keeping the run of the hoses to the actuators as short as possible but it still spikes within 1.5-2 psi.

also forgot to say it only happens when you rev out 1st gear, other gears seem ok

my boost control solenoid is mounted under the air filters, so the hoses going to the wastegates are pretty short !

as long as that 1psi of peak isnt doin any harm im fine with it hehe

profec solenoids pulse too much air out, use a restrictor. Also dont run cheap silicon hose that expands, make sure you run rubber hoses and keep them as short as possible, run signal from the hot pipe.

Blitz dual solenoid is the best, gfb atomic bleed valve is better than the profec comes with an inbuilt restrictor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...