Jump to content
SAU Community

Clunking Noise

Skadoosh!

By Skadoosh!,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Skadoosh! Newbie

Skadoosh!

Posted
Posted

Hey guys..

Wondering if anyone can help me out i own an R33 Skyline GTS25T, and recently when i have been starting to first roll in first gear, or in reverse or when im stoping. There has been a clunky sort of noise coming from the rear. It sounds similar to if you let your toolbox sit loosely in the boot and when you stop and move it slides around hitting things.

After some advice or help if possible

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/
Share on other sites
heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Obviously you've checked the boot for anything loose? Could have to do with your suspension system, not necessarily the suspension itself but a broken swaybar mount, etc. Got anywhere you can take it to for a look?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4714998
Share on other sites
Nimmo Enthusiast

Nimmo

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue and I do hear the sound when I'm slowing down and also sometimes when I stop at lights, kinda sounds like a little 'donk' (it will do this once each time). It can also hear it when I take off sometimes too, it's very noticable when the car is cold and I roll out of the garage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4715385
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Differential gear oil should be inspected every 10,000Km

LSD gear oil (according to the manual) has a higher viscosity & temp. threshhold and should be changed every 40,000Km

If LSD Gear oil gets too thin, gets too low or breaks down, you'll hear clicking between acceleration & deceleration & back again whilst travelling at low speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4715710
Share on other sites
mitch32 Apprentice

mitch32

Posted
Posted
Differential gear oil should be inspected every 10,000Km

LSD gear oil (according to the manual) has a higher viscosity & temp. threshhold and should be changed every 40,000Km

If LSD Gear oil gets too thin, gets too low or breaks down, you'll hear clicking between acceleration & deceleration & back again whilst travelling at low speed.

This also started to happen to me after I changed my subframe bushings and diff bushings to aluminum.

Maybe one of your bushings is completely finished.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4715826
Share on other sites
Nimmo Enthusiast

Nimmo

Posted
Posted
Differential gear oil should be inspected every 10,000Km

LSD gear oil (according to the manual) has a higher viscosity & temp. threshhold and should be changed every 40,000Km

If LSD Gear oil gets too thin, gets too low or breaks down, you'll hear clicking between acceleration & deceleration & back again whilst travelling at low speed.

I don't' want to hijack this thread but just to add to my previous post. Ever since I bought the car (December 2007) I have regular services done on my car and I know the last service all fluids were changed, it's nearly time for another one so I'll mention it to the mechanic and see what they think.

I can't be 100% to say that this was happening from the day of purchase, I'm also guessing if it is that the oil has gotten too thin this won't be resolved simply by changing it now would it.

Does it mean it's time for a new diff?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4717335
Share on other sites
Muff Rising Star

Muff

Posted
Posted

nope not at all... your old diff is still quite good, from the sounds of it, people might disagree with me but if ur low on oil and its clicking you know its engaging... prob not the best thing to have but wont hurt it too much,.check your oill and dont be a cheap ass... buy the good stuff,... its a lot cheaper than a new diff.

if the clicking keeps going . look at shimming it up .

but in my case there were jsut some loose subframe bolts...

when you put rose jointed camber arms and such items there will always be a little clunk.... when you roll back and break or forward and break...

good luck

ps if ur diff starts wineing then youve got problems....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4721558
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Skadoosh! Newbie

Skadoosh!

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the help..

Terry GTR-34: i tried what you said, with the 20km accelerate and decelerate. It does it occasionaly, but more so when i first take off and under braking.

Any suggestions or help.

Thanks for the assistance guys. Ive only just got my car and i'm not very mechanical, and want to lear more, so any help is appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4737925
Share on other sites
33driver Rising Star

33driver

Posted
Posted

sounds like the same issue with mine, but mine is much worse.

Besides the diff being stuffed, I have WAY to much backlash in the diff, but a 2nd hand one, preshimmed ready to put in when i get a chance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4738092
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

^^^The centre universal joint on the tailshaft has been known to go weak on the R33 with rapid acceleration.

On a hoist, your mechanic can push up on it from underneath to 'feel' if it's soft or...

you yourself can drive the car along a freeway and say...

a) drive for 10-20sec at constant 100 Km/Hr

b) do the same at 110 Km/Hr

c) do the same at 120 Km/Hr

d) do the same at 90 Km/Hr

...and if you feel vibration through the car, you may require a replacement tailshaft.

If so, it shouldn't cost much or require much time to replace it.

Make sure it's the same part that corresponds with the same model of your car. For instance, the tailshaft on a R33 GT-R V-Spec is different from that on a non-V-Spec.

Position of cup & axis is important too. Better still, let your mechanic do it if it's a tailshaft. Labour time is quick.

Get the mechanic to replace your diff oil whilst you're at it. It might only be this after all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4738421
Share on other sites
Skadoosh! Newbie

Skadoosh!

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I tried that and there was no vibration through any of those speeds. Does that mean its just diff related.

Does anyone know any good mechanics i can take it to.. One that wont take advantage of my lack of knowledge anyway.

Im in the wollongong are but i dont mind driving to sydney..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4742802
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
I tried that and there was no vibration through any of those speeds. Does that mean its just diff related.

Does anyone know any good mechanics i can take it to.. One that wont take advantage of my lack of knowledge anyway.

Im in the wollongong are but i dont mind driving to sydney..

Wollongong to Kirrawee ain't far!

Garry is the technician at Just Jap 02-95450532

Call Darron, Steve, Tim or Daniel to make a booking. They won't charge you any steep hourly rate either. Very fair and...

Most of all, good diagnostician.

If you have a real low lip on the front, just take the entry gutter at an angle.

101 Bath Rd Kirrawee

Make sure you tell us the results!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4743556
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem so I got the car checked out, and we diagnosed a centre bearing in the tailshaft had completely shat istelf, as well as the uni joints on either side of the shaft.

So I got that replaced with a custom 1 piece shaft, very happy and there wasn't any vibrations when taking off etc, but the clunk is still there.

I think I can safely say my LSD needs some new oil? It's had a hell of a workout this year as I have started drifting...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279067-clunking-noise/#findComment-4769335
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...