Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

little update

turbo will be backon wednesday

im thinking of getting a blowjob vavle along with the new turbo

wats the though on that?

Stock BOV will be fine... unless you want that ghey "PSSSHHHHHTTTT" when you lift off.

nice blitz filter, looks exactly like mine lol

whats interesting about it?? i ask because i cant have volume on my machine, people will hear

I think Danny is pointing to the "tu tu tu tu".

Different to "psssshhhhhtttt", but still ghey...

... Why would you want your M35 to sound like a crappy VN Crappydore?

go watch some of the edward lees videos. the old man (edward) has no idea about cars, it makes me wonder how he sold cars! he was driving mine (thats where it came from) and i was explaining things to him! according to him (and he says it on the video) they have a VQ35 motor, and dual zone climate control! wow i had no idea hahah not to mention tv and sat nav!

nope, its air bouncing back from the throttle and going back out the turbo. its essentially air changing direction!

the other flutter you hear on WRC cars are a pop off valve (i think) not to be confused with a blow off valve. i think they go after the throttle body not before it like a BOV does

so how do i get that damn fluttering sound

there is a VERY cheap way to do this.

find the BOV return pipe where it goes back into the intake. remove pipe. insert a coke bottle lid (i found pepsi and fanta were better for performance) and put a clamp over it so it doesnt move. replace pipe. flutter will now occur.

if a coke bottle lid isnt big enough, just put something in there that wont leak or move. but remember to clamp it! you dont want it being sucked into the engine.

An even cheaper way (have you seen the price of coke?) would be to disconnect the vacuum line from the BOV itself. Buy I do not really recommend it - The factory didn't put them in for the sake of it, the pressure reversion isn't healthy for the turbos wellbeing.

that wont work. the spring tension itself without the vacuum line behind it isnt enough to keep it shut all the time. it will open with the boost pressure and also with the sudden pressure increase when the throttle closes

:ninja: You really want to waste money on pssssshhhh or tu tu tu tu!!!!....couple more dollars and you can go paddle shift.

....or even different headlights aye Cam :)!!!

So what do you want? Paddles or a manual??

nyaanyaa all you want bud. Once the front is done, all I will feel is satisfaction when I look at my car... I also take solice in the fact that when you look at your car, all you see is a stoned Pokemon. :ninja:

Edited by iamhe77
that wont work. the spring tension itself without the vacuum line behind it isnt enough to keep it shut all the time. it will open with the boost pressure and also with the sudden pressure increase when the throttle closes

Fair call - I didn't know if the spring would hold it closed or not.

But the point about keeping one in use remains!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...