Timbos R33 Gtr Build

[timsr33]

ive just started a new project if any one is interested here it is

after stuffing around with my road car for the last four years it got to the point where i was going to have to ruin a good road car and turn it into a race car

or to start fresh with a proper race only car

and sell my road car as standard and get out of a bit of dept

so i decided to get a race only car and it turned up today it looks very straight and i cant wait to start turning it into a race car

any way heres some pics and ill keep any one whos interested updated

[SRS13]

What are the plans for the car? Was this car from Japan?

[timsr33]

the main thing im planning for the car will be road rallys and hill climbs and time attack but ill see how i go

the plan for the car is full built motor top mount t04z turbo mild steel cage strut to strut full seam weld porsche 997 gt3 brakes and a few other things ive been planning but ill have to see how i go

the car was just imported as a race only vechile

[Strik3r]

might be worth considering a 3582 over a t04z for a hillclimb/timeattack car.. I have the t04z in mine and its a headache to get response out of. we're now at the point of changing diffs and possibly gears to try and keep the engine in the right rev range. A 3582 will still net you a solid 520-550hp (depending on supporting mods) but you'll have at least 500rpm better response.

[timsr33]

might be worth considering a 3582 over a t04z for a hillclimb/timeattack car.. I have the t04z in mine and its a headache to get response out of. we're now at the point of changing diffs and possibly gears to try and keep the engine in the right rev range. A 3582 will still net you a solid 520-550hp (depending on supporting mods) but you'll have at least 500rpm better response.

i was tossing up between the two and opted for the t04z with my road car at first the response and power was weigh down untill i cracked a head gaskit and decided to up the comp from 8.2 to 9.7 and i find that a really good combo on diy race fuel any way probably not be great on pump fuel but this car will be on diy race fuel at all times and ive also got two exhaust housings for the t04z housings .70 divided and a .84 divided havent tried the .70 yet but should make full boost by about 4000 hopefully

thanks for the advice keep it coming

[Strik3r]

should put out some serious ponies. look forward to seeing the result.

[timsr33]

im hoping to make some good numbers out of it my road car made 401 kws on 21 pound with a really safe tune this motor will be the same as my road car with just a few little differences hopin for about the 420 to 430 mark at 21 pound fingers crossed ill start stripping the car tommorrow should have the motor and box out by next weekend then ill start on the interior and wireing the week after

[Strik3r]

you'll get that and then some. I have 550hp @ 20psi and 620hp @ 25psi.

[timsr33]

thats big power 620 at 25s a good effort is that on pump fuel

at the moment i think cams are holding my road car back as they are baby pon cams 9,15 by 260s

with this car im still unsure of what cams im going to use i want to go bigger as the pon cams are not making power after 7600rpm

i was thinking around 270 by 10.3 this time but dont want it to be to laggy any ideas of a good track cam

thanks tim

[Strik3r]

I have 272's with 10.2 lift .. They suit the t04z nicely. And yes, 620 @ 25psi on good ole Shell Vpower

[Boof R33]

looks like a interesting project mate bought it from the same place as mine!

[timsr33]

I have 272's with 10.2 lift .. They suit the t04z nicely. And yes, 620 @ 25psi on good ole Shell Vpower

thats impressive witch exhaust housing is it and is it garrett or hks and how aggressive did you have to go with your tune to get them numbers if you dont mind me asking

as im hoping to push the tune a bit harder this time

a bit of a update the engine and box is ready to come out when i get my engine crane back from my mate tommorrow

[Duncan]

good work Tim, can't wait too see it on a track nearby soon

sounds like it should be quick enough that you should get the cage into it pretty soon

[Strik3r]

thats impressive witch exhaust housing is it and is it garrett or hks and how aggressive did you have to go with your tune to get them numbers if you dont mind me asking

as im hoping to push the tune a bit harder this time

a bit of a update the engine and box is ready to come out when i get my engine crane back from my mate tommorrow

.84 exhaust housing. Its a Garret t04z, but its had the compressor cover surge ported so its basically the same as a HKS item.

Tune is actually quite conservative. I stayed with the car the whole time it was on the dyno so I knew exactly what the tuner was doing. Afr's are 12 from 4000 to 6000 then it slowly richens down to 11.5 by limiter. There is only about 17 or 18 degrees of timing in the top end. low-mid 20's in the mid range.

Even after abusing the car at the track for a day, there is no knock worth mentioning (peak knock after 5 hot laps is around the 32 range).

I'm quite happy with it.. just wish i could squeeze a bit more response outta her. Hopefully the new diff will help.

[timsr33]

good work Tim, can't wait too see it on a track nearby soon

sounds like it should be quick enough that you should get the cage into it pretty soon

the cage will be going in as soon as ive stripped it all and figured out a design and all the spec ill need to build the cage to it will be a slow process as it will be the first cage ive built

so far im strugling to under stand the cams manual for cage specs from what i can see i cant find steel grade spec or if your aloud to use press bends in it or what type of welder must be used to get it cams aproved

[timsr33]

.84 exhaust housing. Its a Garret t04z, but its had the compressor cover surge ported so its basically the same as a HKS item.

Tune is actually quite conservative. I stayed with the car the whole time it was on the dyno so I knew exactly what the tuner was doing. Afr's are 12 from 4000 to 6000 then it slowly richens down to 11.5 by limiter. There is only about 17 or 18 degrees of timing in the top end. low-mid 20's in the mid range.

Even after abusing the car at the track for a day, there is no knock worth mentioning (peak knock after 5 hot laps is around the 32 range).

I'm quite happy with it.. just wish i could squeeze a bit more response outta her. Hopefully the new diff will help.

thats great i might have to look into bigger cams and also a different ecu the only problem with that is learning the new tunning soft ware

also concidering oversize valves this time around

other then that im super happy with the bottom end combo i went on my road car so ill stick with the same on this one

[Swiper the Fox]

the cage will be going in as soon as ive stripped it all and figured out a design and all the spec ill need to build the cage to it will be a slow process as it will be the first cage ive built

so far im strugling to under stand the cams manual for cage specs from what i can see i cant find steel grade spec or if your aloud to use press bends in it or what type of welder must be used to get it cams aproved

tim you can buy a kit from Peter at Bond and weld it yourself...call him and tell him what you require.

thats what i did and the fit was awesome...i think Merli did the same.

[Duncan]

the cage will be going in as soon as ive stripped it all and figured out a design and all the spec ill need to build the cage to it will be a slow process as it will be the first cage ive built

so far im strugling to under stand the cams manual for cage specs from what i can see i cant find steel grade spec or if your aloud to use press bends in it or what type of welder must be used to get it cams aproved

well....actually it's easier than it looks. as long as you meet the minimum standards defined in the manual for design, tube thickness, wall thickness and mounting points....everything else is up to the "constructor" to certify. And that can be anyone.

However if you don't follow one of the standard designs and meet their minimum requirements (eg you want to use cromoly with thinner/lighter walls) you will need a CAD engineer to certify that it meets the same requirements. Think $5k+ to design, build and certify.

Paul is on the money - get the bond basic cage because all the hard stuff like bending the main hoop is done. You can weld it yourself or get them to do it. Cheap and safe

[timsr33]

tim you can buy a kit from Peter at Bond and weld it yourself...call him and tell him what you require.

thats what i did and the fit was awesome...i think Merli did the same.

might be worth looking in to what would you roughly be looking for them to bend up a basic cage if they are not to expensive

thanks tim

[timsr33]

well....actually it's easier than it looks. as long as you meet the minimum standards defined in the manual for design, tube thickness, wall thickness and mounting points....everything else is up to the "constructor" to certify. And that can be anyone.

However if you don't follow one of the standard designs and meet their minimum requirements (eg you want to use cromoly with thinner/lighter walls) you will need a CAD engineer to certify that it meets the same requirements. Think $5k+ to design, build and certify.

Paul is on the money - get the bond basic cage because all the hard stuff like bending the main hoop is done. You can weld it yourself or get them to do it. Cheap and safe

i only want a steel cage chrome molly is a no go for me dont want the hassle or expenise of it

does it say any thing about the grade of steel required