R33gts S2, Is There A Turbo Drop In Replacement?

[Torques]

Hello there,

I was wondering if there is a turbocharger (kit?) that is good up to 325-400HP and just plugs in like the original.

By 'plug in' I mean that I want to install back the standard heat shield so the engine looks neat and genuine.

Cheers from London,

Andrew

[PM-R33]

You could go a highflow, or something like a HKS 2535/GTRS etc. All bolt on kits and can retain factory shields.

[Torques]

You could go a highflow, or something like a HKS 2535/GTRS etc. All bolt on kits and can retain factory shields.

Hi there ...

Thanks for the quick reply..

I see that you have a S2 too

Mine is a late 1997, I guess one of the last ones build?

I will check out your recommendations.

Foremost I'm looking for quick spool up time and wide power band.

Cheers to OZ!

Edited July 19, 2009 by Torques

[geraus]

Hey there, To keep your engine bay looking nice and neat and stock. The best way is to highflow your turbo. You can contact hypgear turbo chargers on these fourms, you'l see him floating around as i have one as well. im doing 230-240kws on mine. Turbos are very good with high boost.

[Torques]

Hey there, To keep your engine bay looking nice and neat and stock. The best way is to highflow your turbo. You can contact hypgear turbo chargers on these fourms, you'l see him floating around as i have one as well. im doing 230-240kws on mine. Turbos are very good with high boost.

Hi there ...

230KW sounds quite nice.... and about right for my car.

I'll check it out (but what is HighFlow?) (sorry for the question, I got the Skyline just 8 Months and it was sitting mainly in the garage since I had to work abroad)

Btw.

Is it of any use to adjust the lever of the actuator just a few millimeters.

I was thinking that this might shift the whole boots curve a bit higher while still maintaining the overall boost level adjustment done by the ECU.

Or do I risk that the swing valve does not close fully when it should be fully shut?

(I'm just thinking aloud and have no idea whether the actuator is adjustable at all)

[KiwiRS4T]

How much do you want to spend and what is your ultimate goal? You can get some immediate extra zip by getting an electronic boost controller and upping the boost to 10 -12 psi. Get a Nistune chip http://www.nistune.com/ to make you computer tunable. (Or if you aim for big horsepower get a Link computer http://www.linkecu.com/ ) Get a high flow panel filter for your stock airbox and a three inch turbo back exhaust. If you have a spare car you could send your turbo to GCG http://gcg.com.au/ to rebuild/highflow it to support 450hp or buy an HKS kit that will drop straight in (but more expensive). The Link and Nistune websites list stockists worldwide.

Spend a few hours reading this site. Its all there!

PS sorry just noticed you car - nistune may not be available for your car - you may need to install an R32 ecu first (assuming you're not auto).

[PM-R33]

I'll check it out (but what is HighFlow?) (sorry for the question, I got the Skyline just 8 Months and it was sitting mainly in the garage since I had to work abroad)

In lamens terms it's using a stock skyline turbo shell and completely rebuilding it to make it flow more air and using steel wheels to allow more boost pressure.

[Torques]

In lamens terms it's using a stock skyline turbo shell and completely rebuilding it to make it flow more air and using steel wheels to allow more boost pressure.

Hi!

Yeah I thought so, but is it worth the effort?

Wouldn't it make more sense buying a modern ball bearing unit?

How mach does the conversion cost?

Cheers ..

[geraus]

850 for a hypergear highflow. Thats what i got. My boost goes up to 17psi -18psi

[Torques]

How much do you want to spend and what is your ultimate goal? You can get some immediate extra zip by getting an electronic boost controller and upping the boost to 10 -12 psi. Get a Nistune chip http://www.nistune.com/ to make you computer tunable. (Or if you aim for big horsepower get a Link computer http://www.linkecu.com/ ) Get a high flow panel filter for your stock airbox and a three inch turbo back exhaust. If you have a spare car you could send your turbo to GCG http://gcg.com.au/ to rebuild/highflow it to support 450hp or buy an HKS kit that will drop straight in (but more expensive). The Link and Nistune websites list stockists worldwide.

Spend a few hours reading this site. Its all there!

PS sorry just noticed you car - nistune may not be available for your car - you may need to install an R32 ecu first (assuming you're not auto).

Hi there ...

My ultimate goal would be getting more power (300-330 without ripping the car apart and keeping the appearance of the car more or less stock:)

I read that about 310-330HP (is this rear wheel?) should be achievable without changing too many components.

The standard turbo is said to be good till 13 psi.

As for the ECU I'd love having Nistune, but as you said, it's not available for the R33ECU it seems (such a shame)

The R32 ECU has no Variable Cam Timing, and that's something I'd like to keep.

I read that you can use some ZX300 ECU, but I think that's a bit shaky .. (as for the loom etc)

The PowerFC I don't like since you can only tune it with this HandCommander, and I want to use a Laptop-Computer where I can store all the data and curves.

The LinkECU sounds promising, but it costs an arm and a leg (but it's on my radar)

As for the turbo I could buy a used one for little $$ and have it rebuild to HighFlow.

I think I should get a boost controller and a good boost gauge and toy around with higher boost levels (and see how the engine reacts).

I like the mechanical bleed valves as for their simplicity and their low price.

The electronic boost controllers are neat, and overpriced but if I come across a good unit with scramble mode and boost pressure display I'll go for it.

I have bought the Blazt cable and some software since I want get a feel for the engine's parameter.

I did a lot of serious tuning on motorcycles so I'm not starting from scratch

Cheer from London!

[R34GTFOUR]

If you've got the spare cash, GTRS hands down.

Great spool up time and can make your hp goal without sweating.

Edited July 20, 2009 by R34GTFOUR

[Sydneykid]

Hi there ...

My ultimate goal would be getting more power (300-330 without ripping the car apart and keeping the appearance of the car more or less stock:)

I read that about 310-330HP (is this rear wheel?) should be achievable without changing too many components.

Easily

The standard turbo is said to be good till 13 psi.

Not if you want the ceramic turbine to stay attached

As for the ECU I'd love having Nistune, but as you said, it's not available for the R33ECU it seems (such a shame)

The R32 ECU has no Variable Cam Timing, and that's something I'd like to keep.

I read that you can use some ZX300 ECU, but I think that's a bit shaky .. (as for the loom etc)

The PowerFC I don't like since you can only tune it with this HandCommander, and I want to use a Laptop-Computer where I can store all the data and curves.

Try a search on "datalogit".

The LinkECU sounds promising, but it costs an arm and a leg (but it's on my radar)

The most important question for you to answer, what ECU is your tuner experienced with?

As for the turbo I could buy a used one for little $$ and have it rebuild to HighFlow.

Yep

I think I should get a boost controller and a good boost gauge and toy around with higher boost levels (and see how the engine reacts).

I like the mechanical bleed valves as for their simplicity and their low price.

Quite dangerous if you don't know what you are doing, plus the standard ECU wil beat you every time.

Try a search on "+rich+retard".

The electronic boost controllers are neat, and overpriced but if I come across a good unit with scramble mode and boost pressure display I'll go for it.

Waste of money, keep it simple. Especially if you are going to use the ECU to control the boost later on.

I have bought the Blazt cable and some software since I want get a feel for the engine's parameter.

I did a lot of serious tuning on motorcycles so I'm not starting from scratch

Turbo charged motorcycles? Once you add boost you will be surpised at the changes it makes to your tuning experience.

Cheer from London!

Oh well, never mind

Cheers

Gary

[geraus]

I think you should get the power FC commander. It can be tuned via laptop...

[PM-R33]

Damn you guys beat me to it lol. Yep search up Datalogit dude.

[Torques]

Damn you guys beat me to it lol. Yep search up Datalogit dude.

Hi there ..

I knew about Datalogit, but I think it's too much clutter and too expensive for a functionality other ECUs come with anyway.

[Torques]

Hi there and thanks for the answers

Easily

Not if you want the ceramic turbine to stay attached

Would be a shame if it came off, wouldn't it?

I read that the standard turbo is good for 11-12PSI.

Some claim even 13PSI ..

Quite dangerous if you don't know what you are doing, plus the standard ECU wil beat you every time.

Try a search on "+rich+retard".

Not if you want the ceramic turbine to stay attached

Now that IS VERY interesting since nobody ever mentioned anything about "+rich+retard" for stage I where I was reading.

But if I increase the boost in small steps, to 9-10PSI shouldn't it be safe?

Waste of money, keep it simple. Especially if you are going to use the ECU to control the boost later on.

I like 'keep it simple', how does a new EU control the boost?

Is it using the already build in boost control valve?

Turbo charged motorcycles? Once you add boost you will be surpised at the changes it makes to your tuning experience.

Nope just NA engines, but a turbo engine is not much different (except for the turbo of course )

[mad082]

ok, just to give you a quick run down on rich and retard, it isn't a boost based thing. it is based on airflow. so if you accelerated in the right way you could probably get close to hitting 15psi at higher rpm with the stock ecu, or if you just stomp it off the line you would probably hit it at about 13psi. the actual pressure has little effect on whether the ecu goes into rich and retard mode. when the ecu sees excess airflow it backs off the timing and richens up the air/fuel ratios. so if you want anything over about 205kw you are definately going to need some sort of aftermarket ecu solution.

as for the turbo, the highflow turbo is going to be the most direct bolt in turbo, as it still uses all the stock oil and water lines etc. it doesn't help you much, but there are plenty of places here that do ball bearing high flows

[Torques]

ok, just to give you a quick run down on rich and retard, it isn't a boost based thing. it is based on airflow. so if you accelerated in the right way you could probably get close to hitting 15psi at higher rpm with the stock ecu, or if you just stomp it off the line you would probably hit it at about 13psi. the actual pressure has little effect on whether the ecu goes into rich and retard mode. when the ecu sees excess airflow it backs off the timing and richens up the air/fuel ratios. so if you want anything over about 205kw you are definately going to need some sort of aftermarket ecu solution.

as for the turbo, the highflow turbo is going to be the most direct bolt in turbo, as it still uses all the stock oil and water lines etc. it doesn't help you much, but there are plenty of places here that do ball bearing high flows

Thanks for the run down

Is it possible having the standard ECU remapped (like a Mines ECU) to get around the R&R?

As for power I read the following

injectors max out at around 340 bhp

afm max out............around.340 bhp

fuel pump max........around 350 bhp

standard turbo, max boost .8bar, max power 330bhp ish

standard ecu max power 330bhp ish

standard clutch.....340bhp max

Now you guys tell me that the standard ECU is no good for anything over 274bhp ..

Cheers ...

[KiwiRS4T]

The Standard ecu cannot be remapped. the closest thing is to get a new daughterboard fitted and get a custom chip for that, but that's quite costly. If you get an R32 ecu and chip that you can get a black box to do the vvt but really you may as well bite the bullet and get a Link c/w boost control and their knock detectors. If you want to tune your own engine you will need minimum some kind of knock detection, a wide band O2 meter and pref an exhaust temp guage.

The GCG highflow is effectively a new turbo in that all the components are replaced. It is not cheap however at around AU $2000 which is still less than a new turbo with fitting kit. You can get bush bearing highflows for less - they don't spool up quite as quickly and may not last as long.

[R31Nismoid]

Thanks for the run down

Is it possible having the standard ECU remapped (like a Mines ECU) to get around the R&R?

As for power I read the following

injectors max out at around 340 bhp

afm max out............around.340 bhp

fuel pump max........around 350 bhp

standard turbo, max boost .8bar, max power 330bhp ish

standard ecu max power 330bhp ish

standard clutch.....340bhp max

Now you guys tell me that the standard ECU is no good for anything over 274bhp ..

Cheers ...

Kinda right...

Injectors - 220-240rwkw

AFM - 220-240rwkw

Fuel Pump - change by default, simple as that

Stock Turbo - 220rwkw

Stock ECU - 170-200rwkw (it varies per car based on many variables)

Stock Clutch - 160rwkw, much more power its on borrowed time and will fail.

The ECU generally is the most limiting factor, but then injectors & AFM come into play not too much further so its much of a muchness to be honest.

Most people usually have upgraded the clutch too long soon as they increase power. Especially if its 15yrs old