Jump to content
SAU Community

Roll Cage Welding In Tasmania ?

gtr777

By gtr777,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted
ummm good luck getting that cars cage approved.

There is no diagonal in the main hoop which it must have???

i thought the same thing at first, but have a look in the cams manual, you don't need anything in the main hoop. all of his cages are designed like this, and they all have passed.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

3.2.4 Diagonal member:At least one Each Diagonal member must be fitted. Its location must be in accordance with drawings 253-3 to 253-5 and it must be straight.

I and the people who cert my cages interperate that as each diagonal in those mentioned drawings must be present in the cage design.

Those drawings as im sure your aware indicate a hoop diagonal and a rear leg diagnoal minimum

Some of the basic cage drawings dont incorporate a diagonal but the way we read those rules it is required.

If his getting them through that way then oh well but personally id rather have a diagonal to stop the thing folding over.

Edited by Risking
sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted (edited)

253-3 shows the design he uses. main hoop is empty, and the brace is in the back of the car (double brace in yt's case). reason he does it is so you can store your helmates and stuff in the back between stages.

i'm not sure what the cams guys are like in other states. but ours live by those drawings, if you put extra bars in that are not in the drawings, the cage will be knocked back.

eg... this cage has 2 diagonal baces instead of a solid bar in the main hoop...not in the cams manual, and gets knocked back (yt had to cut bars the same as that out of a rally car the other week, cause cams knocked it back)

NissanR33_Diagram.jpg

Edited by sav man
DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted
3.2.4 Diagonal member:At least one Each Diagonal member must be fitted. Its location must be in accordance with drawings 253-3 to 253-5 and it must be straight.

I and the people who cert my cages interperate that as each diagonal in those mentioned drawings must be present in the cage design.

Those drawings as im sure your aware indicate a hoop diagonal and a rear leg diagnoal minimum

Some of the basic cage drawings dont incorporate a diagonal but the way we read those rules it is required.

If his getting them through that way then oh well but personally id rather have a diagonal to stop the thing folding over.

not being smart Risking but you should check those CAMS manual drawing numbers you quoted. drawings 253-3 and 253-3A neither have a diagonal in the main hoop, only in the rear section.

Ive just completed my own cage and for a first timer its fing way to hard to interoperate the CAMS manual to do with cages. i had 2 or 3 other people come and give me there opinion of what they though it ment then i went n building.

I was with Ben when we dropped his car off and i asked YT the same thing as i thought at the time that you had to have a diagonal in the main hoop. once you look at the cage an the way it is built you can see that its just as safe and better in a weight balance situation.

ANK Enthusiast

ANK

Posted
Posted
YT just did a cage for us for a r33. looks like he got his design ideas from custom cages, cause they are very similar.

gallery_5985_251_1216545.jpg

gallery_5985_251_832168.jpg

gallery_5985_251_1056089.jpg

gallery_5985_251_885224.jpg

very well made for a streeter i would have put the taxi bar on some bends and got the bars that follow the roof lining up higher and the a piller bars closed to the a piller but perfect for a race car where it doesnt matter if the bars are noticed

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

im not arguing, if he gets them through then great.

My persoanl experiance I had one rejected for not having a diagonal member in the hoop so ever since they all get it.

I guess its the same as front door bars like 253-17b. Ive got a cage passed with that straight leg cut and welded to the side intrusion bar. However more recently with my space frame it has been knocked back and the leg must be one solid bar.

Rules are open to interperation and every inspector is diffrerent I guess.

Thats cage design savman would not pass any of the inspectors I use either.

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
What are the costs involved with having a cage weled in ?

That's if you go with the "Custom Cage" kit option.

Thanks for your help.

Regards

If you are series contact one or several of the people doing them... they will give you a price based on your requirements. There are quite a few mates rates jobs done on Race cars in Tassie, and a forum is not the place you will get an accurate costing.

TT

  • 10 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...