Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gcg sell something like your suggesting, can be seen on the uas website in the turbo section!!! that would give you an idea then get someone to build it or maybe gcg will exchange yours for one etc...

link to page

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...list_turbos.htm

I actually had the turbosmart ultra gate welded onto my exhaust housing. do a search in this thread for "trust td06 stage 1" and that should bring up a link with some photo's of how it was done, if you cant find them PM me and I will email them to you. This way it can be bolted onto the stock manifold without too much modification, from a flow point of view though you want to get rid of the stock exhaust manifold as its flow is shite.

ive seen that, where an external gate is welded onto the exaust housing.

my only question would be - does it seriously effect the exaust flow?

it makes alot of sense for the flow to follow that snail shape and push the turbine around, but would changing the direction anywhere in that housing reduce flow properties?

just a question out of curiosity

paul is it easy to weld?

a bloke i know told me it couldnt be welded to the manifold cos its cast.... but a turbo yeah?

also who could do it? any good turbo place like AVO or somethin over here in the eastern states? also how much has the guy over there charged to do this (i forget his name now but i read it in ur post from a while ago)

Here is a pic of what i did to mine. I did all the machining work myself then had the block welded to the stcok manifold, this cost over $200 to be done as it needs to be heated then welded then cooled slowly, then it needs to be faces as the manifold distorts because of the heat. If you got someone to do the job for you it would be over 400.

Welding the gate to the housing is ok, but does not work as well, either does modding the stock manifold, i would just get it done propely with a new manifold or buy a diff turbo.

Sorry Clint32, but a wastegate can be too big, they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes. Then the boost climbs and they open again. Then they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes again. This cycling causes surging as the boost moves around and also wears out the wastegate.

Get the right size is my recommendation.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Sorry Clint32, but a wastegate can be too big, they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes.  Then the boost climbs and they open again.  Then they bypass too much exhaust gas, tubine slows and the boost drops so the wastegate closes again.  This cycling causes surging as the boost moves around and also wears out the wastegate.

Get the right size is my recommendation.

Cool thought something like that would be the case..

What size for a T04E as Kamikaze said? ;)

Originally posted by Clint32

Here is a pic of what i did to mine.  I did all the machining work myself then had the block welded to the stcok manifold, this cost over $200 to be done as it needs to be heated then welded then cooled slowly, then it needs to be faces as the manifold distorts because of the heat.  If you got someone to do the job for you it would be over 400.  

Welding the gate to the housing is ok, but does not work as well, either does modding the stock manifold, i would just get it done propely with a new manifold or buy a diff turbo.

dude that manifold must flow shit coz each runner is a different size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...