Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have a picture of how the roof is bonded to the chassis?

I'm having my Stag re-sprayed in a few months time & the paint shop says it's dinted to hell & may be better to replace entire roof. I would love to find a dual sunroof car & convert mine.

3 quotes I've had so far range from $6600 to $9000 for full job including fitting this kit (supplied by me) http://www.freeway-dolphin.co.jp/aeroform/stagea/nissan_stagea_c34-wh.htm

Thanks.

The roof skin is joined/welded under the roof rails, that is why they are there

You will have to remove the front winscreen as well to fit/replace the skin. Approx 6-8 hours to go replace skin and remove the new skin from roof cut

I would really find a better panel shop to fix your existing roof

I helped do my 2004 lancer roof recently. Done in approx 4-5 hours

Do the quotes to repaint the car include removing and re fitting the side rear quater glass and tail gate glass?

It cost me approx $500 to get someone to cut out side glass and tail gate glass and then come back to refit after painting. I left the front windscreen in.

You will most likly need to replace the front screen moulding and the hatch screen moulding plus they ahve a hidden retainer as well. Allow another $400-500 for these

Make sure if the side rear quater galss comes out they do not cut the rubber as it bonded to the glass. It can not be replaced and is very easy to damage. other wither new quater glass is $850 a side

As to respray costs...find out what brand of paint as good stuff costs alot more

You can spend $150 on 4L of clear or like me I spent over $500 on clear

My total paint materail cost was over $2500 alone, but that was inside and out and full kit and engine bay. Colour was $170L....I used 8L.

Is the body kit a copy or genuine? How good is the fitmen going to be. Have the panel shops seen the quailty

I bought a doggy copy rear bar and side skirts and spent 50-60 hours to get them to fit

Just make sure you know all your cost up front before you start the job....other wise you might be up for a few extar grand.

Hope that helps

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
  • 11 months later...

Forget it mate. They all turned out like shit. Many hrs spent bogging and sanding to get them to look good and they are still wavey. It just about works out cheaper to fill the gap in steel and repaint the car.

hahaha considering what the above link would cost to get them sent over and even then would they be a perfect fit and therefore value for money? who knows. At least yours are close and cheaper :-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...