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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys, just letting everyone know that I am putting some gear up for sale, wont be long and the team will be doing the new mods to the car and hopefully smash some records, we have set our goal to break both records.... 8.47 by RH9 fastest street tired gtr and theos 8.95 fastest Manual H pattern GTR in one foul swoop. The new mods are going to blow peoples minds but keeping it a little secret for now and see if we can pull it off.

Item 1 for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$1800 ono

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

310797_2612609561618_1798636800_n.jpg

1st item for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$2000

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter and Bracket

Roll over Breather ball setup

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

422709_10150635534533485_2105014345_n.jpg

2nd item for sale:- HKS Drag Exhaust System Cat Back, 4" stainless with a HKS Titanium 4" Cannon!!!! (Very Very Very Rare Exhaust system)

$500

66744_1637929355222_7788879_n.jpg

66744_1637929395223_4306257_n.jpg

66744_1637929435224_4430447_n.jpg

3rd item for sale:- Front R32 GTR Standard Brakes all been kitted out and billet dogbones to suit bigger front rotors, R33 GTR Brembo Rear brakes and Rotors, All the brakes have been kitted out and had new rotors approximately 12months work on the drag strip, roughly 20passes. Pictures are when it was freshly painted, but front calipers have paint coming off front brake fluid I split on them. Can repaint front calipers if needed but no biggy.

$1000 for the hole lot.

Brembo sticker on front ones are fake just to match the rears :P

58036_1744178571386_7743040_n.jpg

and rear ones are real brembos and now has sticker back on there.

155387_1744178931395_6472588_n.jpg

inside 19" rims but also fit inside my 17" drag rims.

292527_4227980784889_2087269868_n.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Making a 4" Titanium Dump Pipe that goes into a side pipe under the door, aswell as a 50mm Titanium Screamer side pipe from the Wastegate. Will save over 20kgs of weight over the old exhaust system.

Hey dude, definately cool that youve gone all out on this build.

Found a video that may be of interest to you. If you skip to 3.20, youll see yellow R32 GTR making a 8.11 second pass and 1.018 sec 60 footer. They end up talking about the engine etc but its all in Japanese.

EDIT: Just did some backtracing and found the full spec list etc....

http://www.bea.hi-ho.ne.jp/avance/yellowmonster.htm

  • 1 month later...

Haven't done a update in awhile as the car has been out of action since Jambo last year, have slowly pulled my finger out and got my shit together to bring this car back big, better, faster, stronger. Over the next few weeks the car is getting a major overhaul in preparation for Local Motor Mayham at Palmyra Dragway at the end of the month.

Got 3 weeks to get this work list done gonna be stretched for time:

- Full carbon Fibre Strange braking system to go on (Saving Approx 30KG rotational mass)

- Carbon Fibre Doors with Lexan Windows (Saving approx. 60KG)

- Custom 4" Titanium Exhaust System with Titanium Screamer Pipe (Saving about 20KG)

- Rebuild PPG Gearbox with all new bearings, main shaft and 3rd Gear + OS Giken Billet Sandwich Plate going in.

- All new fuel system with Aeromotive Mechanical Pump mounted to the rear of the Peterson Dry Sump Pump. ( Saving over 40kg over old system)

- Custom made fuel cell mounted in front of car 15L Capacity.

- Upgrading to Twin Parachutes as the single one was not sufficient for power and weight.

+ more power for more MPH aiming to take out both the Manual and Auto gearbox Street Tyre World Records, quite confident we can achieve this feat, time will tell I guess :woot: . Goal is 8.3 - 8.4 Sec pass which just over half a second from our current PB. Gonna be an action packed season....bring it on can't wait.

Will post pics soon.

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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