Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any word on how much this whole project's gonna cost?

Like all projects, think of what you want to spend then double it.

But this car is sooooo gonna be worth it, watching it carefully, 4 door 34 love.

Last Saturday up in the local Adelaide hills my clutch decided to shit itself, basically i couldnt move, could start the car in gear and nothing.

After waiting 4hrs for a tow truck i got the car back to my brothers workshop and decided to pull the gearbox out the following day. This is what i found....

post-38653-1262863284_thumb.jpg post-38653-1262863341_thumb.jpg

After getting the gearbox out i decided i might start on the engine :P

post-38653-1262863436_thumb.jpg post-38653-1262863520_thumb.jpg post-38653-1262863588_thumb.jpg post-38653-1262863637_thumb.jpg

And this is how it looks now

post-38653-1262863696_thumb.jpg

Cheers Luke

Cheers mate.

Next step is to strip the engine bay out, and get the bay ready for painting. After that drop the front subframe, paint it Nismo silver with nismo bushes throughout. And while all that is getting done assemble the 26 and get that ready.

Might try and roadtrip it over to NSW to watch the superlap :)

I remember those days. It was the same way with me, I was just going to but the Manual transmission in and ran into a problem with the pilot bushing. Said screw it and decided to pull the engine instead.

Cheers mate.

Next step is to strip the engine bay out, and get the bay ready for painting. After that drop the front subframe, paint it Nismo silver with nismo bushes throughout. And while all that is getting done assemble the 26 and get that ready.

Might try and roadtrip it over to NSW to watch the superlap :)

might as well seam weld it too

On the weekend i took my guards off ready for the engine bay to be painted. Getting all the little clips and lines out of the engine bay was a pain but almost finally there woo.

post-38653-1263208373_thumb.jpg

Reo bar off :)

post-38653-1263208654_thumb.jpg

If u look where the battery usually goes, that rust will be getting cut out and a new piece welded in :laugh:

post-38653-1263208727_thumb.jpg

Just got the brake booster and clutch cylinder to remove now and that it..... Then onto sanding :D

post-38653-1263208813_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Had my Exhaust manifolds, dumps and heat shields hpc coated this week and this is how they look :D

post-38653-1263977169_thumb.jpg post-38653-1263977281_thumb.jpg post-38653-1263977307_thumb.jpg post-38653-1263977356_thumb.jpg

Also have removed everything from the engine bay and sanded it and now its ready for painting ;)

post-38653-1263977443_thumb.jpg post-38653-1263977491_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Thougth you would have stitched it, I have read that doing welds without spacing them 'stiching' does not allow the chassis to flex at all and can cause the weld to tear with time. I could be wrong though.

Read my mind.Yes this is true...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...