Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

reading another topic recently made me think about this as I'd never considered it before .. most tuners seem to stick a wideband sensor into the tail pipe when tuning the AFRs.

How accurate is this method compared to having a wideband stuck inside the dump pipe directly eg. throguh the o2 sensor hole. Does the cat affect AFRs readings or would you get the same readings from tail pipe as you would from the dump pipe ? Cheers

Not really, ideally each exhaust port should have a sensor tapped into it for an accurate description of exactly how the motor is performing, what it does give is a generalised reading across the board to get the mixtures within an acceptable range & considering every tuner I've ever used has done this method & i have neva had a motor go bang due to incorrect fuelling levels when winding up the wick so-to-spk it seems to work ok.

ps. Better if an actual tuner responds so you can get more accurate info-but this is what i have read when investigating fuel mapping & turbo charged applications & they all recommend sensors at each port for big hp numbers & huge dollar spends

The 02 sensor is designed to work a certain distance from the ehaust ports, normally about 50-80cm. Best to have it arund the cat somewhere but that just isn't reasonable for a shop to weld bungs on your exahust just to tune ti

Not really, ideally each exhaust port should have a sensor tapped into it for an accurate description of exactly how the motor is performing, what it does give is a generalised reading across the board to get the mixtures within an acceptable range & considering every tuner I've ever used has done this method & i have neva had a motor go bang due to incorrect fuelling levels when winding up the wick so-to-spk it seems to work ok.

ps. Better if an actual tuner responds so you can get more accurate info-but this is what i have read when investigating fuel mapping & turbo charged applications & they all recommend sensors at each port for big hp numbers & huge dollar spends

An even better method is to use thermo sensors for each manifold runner. You can more accurately tune this way as AFR sensors can be a bit laggy or problematic with readings when high flow and temperature is involved

egt is how the big drag cars are tuned...thats how Mark is tuning the Wedlock Camry. The initial tune on the dyno using wideband in the dump pipe then perfected on the track using egt's that are logged and are checked after each run.

My car is tuned using a dump pipe mounted Bosch sensor with a tailpipe mounted one to cross reference the readings.

Dunc's ive mounted my sensor about 200mm from the turbine outlet...not good for longevity but the best for accuracy when tuning this way. Techedge recommend mounting the sensor much further down the dump so it is not affected by the heat as much, this is only recommended to make the sensor last longer.

Edited by DiRTgarage
My car is tuned using a dump pipe mounted Bosch sensor with a tailpipe mounted one to cross reference the readings.

yep same, to me this is the safest way to do it.

Dunc's ive mounted my sensor about 200mm from the turbine outlet...not good for longevity but the best for accuracy when tuning this way. Techedge recommend mounting the sensor much further down the dump so it is not affected by the heat as much, this is only recommended to make the sensor last longer.

yeah I think we are using the same kit then. I've just replaced my sensor after 5 years which I reckon was a pretty good life

I'm sure EGT is the best way to do it but you need 6 bungs in the exhaust ports, 6 sensors, 6 controllers. All too hard for your average street car, but probably worth it when you need that last 2% by tuning fuel in individual cylinders

always wondered if a cat would effect the AFR's that a sensor at the exhaust tip reads...

Dirt what cat do you run?

good point Ryan...but i cant comment. The cat in my car is long gone...i do have a magic cat from Magic Performance in Sydney to run on the street, but these days i rarely drive the car on the street.

always wondered if a cat would effect the AFR's that a sensor at the exhaust tip reads...

No, it does not effect the readings. As long as the cat is not blocked, but then again, if it were blocked, you'd have trouble starting the engine :D

yep same, to me this is the safest way to do it.

yeah I think we are using the same kit then. I've just replaced my sensor after 5 years which I reckon was a pretty good life

I'm sure EGT is the best way to do it but you need 6 bungs in the exhaust ports, 6 sensors, 6 controllers. All too hard for your average street car, but probably worth it when you need that last 2% by tuning fuel in individual cylinders

It's probably not so much to get that extra 2% but to ensure that the engine lasts longer than 2% of the time. When you have high temps in one cylinder, you can find out why before you melt a piston. An 02 sensor in the tailpipe will only tell you a combination of all cylinders.

Most factory tunes are done by individual EGT's when the engines are run in. It is the most accurate way to tune an engine.

Even if you only have it attached when you are tuning, it's going to save a lot of time, money and headaches.

I'm pretty sure they only cost about $800-$1000 to set up completely so it's not that much when you consider how many dollars go into some engines.

It's probably not so much to get that extra 2% but to ensure that the engine lasts longer than 2% of the time. When you have high temps in one cylinder, you can find out why before you melt a piston. An 02 sensor in the tailpipe will only tell you a combination of all cylinders.

Most factory tunes are done by individual EGT's when the engines are run in. It is the most accurate way to tune an engine.

Even if you only have it attached when you are tuning, it's going to save a lot of time, money and headaches.

I'm pretty sure they only cost about $800-$1000 to set up completely so it's not that much when you consider how many dollars go into some engines.

engine lasting 2% of the time...unfortunately Duncan knows exactly what you mean.(not a dig)

yes EGT's showed up a faulty injector very quickly in the Wedlock car when the AFR's only appeared slightly rich. Using methanol this could have quickly hydraulic'd(sp*) a cylinder and ended in an expensive mess

Edited by DiRTgarage
reading another topic recently made me think about this as I'd never considered it before .. most tuners seem to stick a wideband sensor into the tail pipe when tuning the AFRs.

How accurate is this method compared to having a wideband stuck inside the dump pipe directly eg. throguh the o2 sensor hole. Does the cat affect AFRs readings or would you get the same readings from tail pipe as you would from the dump pipe ? Cheers

It slows down the response, obviously takes time for the exhaust to travel from the engine to the tail pipe. No big deal there at full throttle, but it can be a problem at low exhaust gas speeds. Plus you need to be careful with large diameter tailpipes that outside air doesn't sneak in and dilute the readings.

Cheers

Gary

I'm sure EGT is the best way to do it but you need 6 bungs in the exhaust ports, 6 sensors, 6 controllers. All too hard for your average street car, but probably worth it when you need that last 2% by tuning fuel in individual cylinders

There are plenty of kits available come with everything you need, you can have one all installed and running for ~1000-1500 (roughly the cost of a good wide band o2 sensor). I'm baffled why more people don't do it.

I'm not sure that its for that last 2%, my only reasoning was to ensure everything is safe - even with a standard plenum I have very large corrections so you can be reasonably sure most people have a few cylinders running up to 10% leaner than the average number the o2 sensor is telling you - and the lean cylinders aren't the ones everyone around here blindly claim.

well...wide band 02 set is $256 over here http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm, and I still think 1500 is understating the cost of 6 sensors, controllers, display, manifold installation etc.

but,....no doubt if you have spend over $10k on a motor, 1500 is only a little more for safety.

in practice....almost everyone tunes a car with a wide safety margin in o2 ratios to deal with the risk....how many dyno graphs on here are 11.2-11.7 at full load. Like I said unless you are after the last %% in performance you will just accept this margin...I certainly do and have never had a motor die with a tuning problem :D, and the old girl still makes enough power to keep up with the 6l commodores

i run 6 egts and 2 dataloggers setup to log them and it cost around $1000 when the US dollar was really good so around the $1200 mark now i would say. They are a damn good investment and as dcieve says its showing alot of different readings to the so called hottest cylinders being claimed on here, i think people underestimate the difference is cylinder temps across the board. A rebuild from melted pistons cost me $4000 im sure $1200 isnt much to ask when your pushing a motor pretty hard.

Check out the innovative stuff... the complete egt set-up set me back roughly 1k a year or so back and a mate welded bungs into the manifold. The benefit is you can run the innovative o2 in series with the egt and datalog the whole lot. The only downside is I can't get it to speak to the ecu so egt & o2 are logged seperately to everything else in the ecu.

I was prompted to go with egt's after watching friends destroy expensive motors with detonation running 'safe' afr's and conservative tunes (stuff all timing).

always wondered if a cat would effect the AFR's that a sensor at the exhaust tip reads...

Dirt what cat do you run?

yes it does, BUT most cars get tuned via the tailpipe as it is perfectly accurate for power pulls etc as the velocity of the gasses many inaccuracies. Idle cannot be checked properly at the tailpipe without a myriad of tricks and experience.

Any big power setup gets a specially placed bung for tuning @ my shop, and careful egt monitoring if the customer has the budget.

To be honest experience is more important than placement on 95% of tuned cars.

Edited by URAS
yes it does, BUT most cars get tuned via the tailpipe as it is perfectly accurate for power pulls etc as the velocity of the gasses many inaccuracies. Idle cannot be checked properly at the tailpipe without a myriad of tricks and experience.

Any big power setup gets a specially placed bung for tuning @ my shop, and careful egt monitoring if the customer has the budget.

To be honest experience is more important than placement on 95% of tuned cars.

If you took measurements from a car from the tailpipe, then from the bung before the catalyst, do you actually notice any difference in AFR? I didn't think any o2 sensor is that sensitive that it could measure the difference?

The catalyst removes oxygen from the oxides of nitrogen and then combines the oxygen with the carbon monoxide to create carbon dioxide. So it really only takes the oxygen from one place and puts it in another and both before and after the cat, the wideband doesn't recognise the gases before they are split with their other particle.

Or are you referring to it effecting the result in that it is slower, not so much changing the reading?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...